Second go. Old book has it at 7c and that might be more accurate. Hard to tell because I've been climbing this style a lot lately and it's it's a style I'm medium good at. Lots of weird knee bars and hand jams and other crack climby techs.
There's no way to get around the slopers... you just have to grab them. Because of this I only try Gibbs Cave in the winter season, and at this point i'm several seasons deep on it! I've always struggled with this problem and am over the moon psyched it came together this fall. A meaningful one.
This climb was pretty fun Those first few crimps are sick!!! The top out and descent are kinda awkward. Note: I wanted to try to climb it without using the big foot ledge but it seems really contrived. Even trying to pull on with a heel around the right side of the prow doesn't really make sense since every time i pulled off the ground i would just swing into the foot ledge. Seems its in and its very soft for V4. Would love to hear some other people's opinions on this though. Get on it its goooood!!
Didn’t unpack my stack of 3 pads which I strapped together with alpine draws cuz this looked soft... and it was... very soft. I’d say V1 with cool crimps and nice rock. This boulder got me thinking it was going to be a good day after all, but alas, I crossed the snowline on the hike to 420 and everything was covered in a thick layer of frost. The heavy pad stack, icy ground and my normal clumsiness meant I slipped and fell on my butt 4 or 5 times. Either got a good pistol squat workout or back problems trying to stand back up. This was mostly ok except when I was hiking across the ice-covered talus field and slipped on top of a rock, nearly tumbling to a hypothermic death in the 10 ft chasm below it. After all this, I found the boulders covered in frost, and tried to brush them off until I realized it was a losing battle and that touching the rock was melting the frost. Drove back to the gym with cruise control at 50 to not lose the spare tire
Excellent route, but dramatically harder if you're as short or shorter than me (~5'4" wingspan). A solid notch harder for me than either Gaia or Racomelo. 3 days. Changed beta on the 2nd last go of the last day in Kalymnos then just barely snagged a send on the final try. On to Leonidio!
I tried to get the top sussed and kept whirling off the last throw to the nose. The second time I hit the first move it all clicked albeit desperate near the end. Great jumpy climb, and way harder than the other Carver 7s. Temps today.