Screeching Wall

25 Sport Climbs, 5 Trad Climbs


This tall, striking cliff sits directly opposite Maternal Wall and makes an excellent compliment to that crag due to their opposing aspects and similar grade spread. Like Maternal, the best routes on Screeching Wall tend to be long, gently-overhanging endurance affairs, but there's a lot of mediocre fodder crammed between the gems. If you visit, leave those pitches for later and focus on the crag classics such as 'Watching Bananas Bend' (5.10b), 'Flight of the Fledgling' (5.11a), and 'Isis in Chains' (5.11c).

Screeching Wall is east facing and gets morning sun. There are trees in the bottom of the canyon near the wall's base, so finding tree shade is possible if it's warm.

Screeching wall was developed largely by Robyn Barley around the time that maternal wall was being developed by John Fantini. It requires one to climb many crimps on polished and blocky gneiss. There are slab, vertical and slightly overhanging routes to be had.

Directions / Travel Info:

Follow the directions to Doctors' Wall. Once there, continue north by scrambling through the Fern Gully corridor, passing Blipvert and Tippling Tower on the right. Keep hiking north along the bottom of the canyon and the 'Watching Bananas Bend' sector of Screeching Wall will soon come into view on the left, a few minutes past Tippling Tower.

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