Joshua L'Heureux:I found the sequence after the low crux much better if I stayed right and go straight up through slopers rather than traverse left through the crimps. At the top crux, there is a hidden great edge high and left below the mini roof that most people don&rsquo;t seem to find.
Owen Smith:Trust your foot and get your ceps ready for a big boi clip. Or skip it.
Andrew Wexler:From the final pod: rt hand on stepped edge, left hand on crimp above pod, left foot into pod, boost up and grab open handed sidepull with left hand. Drive up to undercling with right. Establish feet. Hard clip. Left hand over roof to pinch. Feet up. Bump left hand twice. Big reach to small right crimp. Feet over roof. Left hand to goodish hold out left. Match. 2 more moves to finish.
seanmcdonah:Move left at the second last bolt to a blind pinch and into the underclings. Easier than out right.
Maddy Marchuk:I went strait up at the final crux off the underclings to some crimps/stuff, seemed a touch harder moves but eliminated the traverse. Pretty sure the crimp I went to you use as a foot later?
Yannick Neufeld-Cumming:Beta to skip a few moves - From the jug flake just before the crux. Right hand to staircase crimp to the right of draw, left foot to chip an inch below left hand. Left hand up to side pull sloper, stand up right hand to undercling jug up and right. Left hand to side pull beside draw. Bump right hand to better undercling, left hand to slanted crimp, high right foot. Go twice with right hand.
Dan Beland:I went right hand to a foot out right at the crux then brought left hand up to the sloping sidepull.
Graham McGrenere:Instead of traversing right at the crux, go straight up to the small crimp underclings. Reach left hand to a foot hold used farther up, then deadpoint to the good ledge. 2 moves instead of like...9
My first of the grade! After a summer of rehab, with nothing but campus boarding and a bit of bouldering, this was the pefect project to take on for the end of my season. Took about 10 attempts, mostly to decide which of the 100 possible lines worked best for me. I certainly leveraged my height on the finished product. Super proud of this one.
Super stoked I didn't have to try it again in the cold (and so was Jaci)!! Fun climb, boils down to two cruxes separated by pretty good rests. First redpoint attempt after a beta burn, fastest 13a to date!
This thing was. Mental hurdle for me. Hadent tried it for just about two years. When I first tried it it felt so confusing and very hard. This was first time back on it since then. Awesome to notice huge improvements! Hung draws then sent casually! Thanks for this one Cody!!!