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Dr. Seuss' Wild Ride – 5.13a ^↓

Skaha > Doctors' Wall

30m / 98ft, 13 bolts
FA: Pete Lindgren - 2010-05-10

Description:

*TOP 100* Climb the offwidth until it's possible to step right and ascend the face. A tricky mid-pitch crux is followed by a rest and a testy boulder problem at the top. This route makes a good "first 13a" and sees many attempts. 13 bolts (26m) Prep: Cody Leyden; FA: Pete Lindgren, 2009.

Show Beta

jamesenright: Left beta
Chad Clark: Headlamp is crucial
Jesse Clark: On the second last bolt I would get the right undercling and a perch foot under me. Then a left foot out left and would knee bar the wall to clip. Works with or without a pad. I went straight up for upper the crux.
Sam Wall: from the jug below the crux, move right hand to the two tiered crimp thats level with the jug then bring left foot high to a little foot right below jug. left hand to big slopey side pull then big move with right hand and catch the gaston. bring right foot up to tiered crimp and switch gaston to first undercling. match feet then put right foot out to right rubbery foot. bump right hand to higher undercling, left hand to first pinch side pull, bump left foot up to slopey edge with a half drop knee and hit higher side pull. move right foot up and hit jug with right hand. swing right heel high and place it with right hand on jug. move left hand to down pulling crimp, bring right hand to small crimp above left then lose the heel and head left to crimp, match, left hand up once more then right hand to clipping jug
Joshua L'Heureux: I found the sequence after the low crux much better if I stayed right and go straight up through slopers rather than traverse left through the crimps. At the top crux, there is a hidden great edge high and left below the mini roof that most people don&rsquo;t seem to find.
Owen Smith: Trust your foot and get your ceps ready for a big boi clip. Or skip it.
Andrew Wexler: From the final pod: rt hand on stepped edge, left hand on crimp above pod, left foot into pod, boost up and grab open handed sidepull with left hand. Drive up to undercling with right. Establish feet. Hard clip. Left hand over roof to pinch. Feet up. Bump left hand twice. Big reach to small right crimp. Feet over roof. Left hand to goodish hold out left. Match. 2 more moves to finish.
seanmcdonah: Move left at the second last bolt to a blind pinch and into the underclings. Easier than out right.
Maddy Marchuk: I went strait up
Yannick Neufeld-Cumming: Beta to skip a few moves - From the jug flake just before the crux. Right hand to staircase crimp to the right of draw, left foot to chip an inch below left hand. Left hand up to side pull sloper, stand up right hand to undercling jug up and right. Left hand to side pull beside draw. Bump right hand to better undercling, left hand to slanted crimp, high right foot. Go twice with right hand.
Dan Beland: I went right hand to a foot out right at the crux then brought left hand up to the sloping sidepull.
Graham McGrenere: Instead of traversing right at the crux, go straight up to the small crimp underclings. Reach left hand to a foot hold used farther up, then deadpoint to the good ledge. 2 moves instead of like...9

Recent Sendage:

_5.13a

jamesenright

_2023-10-21
_5.13a

Eli Dusenbury

_2023-10-15

Greatfull for all the catches and finally climbing this line! :) I went "right" at the top.
_{5.13a ^↓}

Ethan Morf

_2023-09-28

5th try, right beta. Sick as!
_5.13a

Thomas Flahr

_2023-09-07
_5.13a

Connor Egan

_2023-08-24

Went the “right” way on the send go, turned into a little bit of a nemesis climb considering I only ever tried it in the awful Skaha summer heat. The quest for 100 continues!

_5.13a

Chad Clark

_2023-07-23

What a wild ride indeed. First of the grade in Skaha. Started with early morning sessions and finished with head first headlamp whippers in the night. So grateful to have a crew of stoked homies to share these epic experiences with. ."Step with care and great tact, and remember that life's a great balancing act." - Dr. Suess.
_5.12d

benflynn

_2022-10-14
_{5.13a ^↓}

Nathan Hall

_2022-10-13

Really fun. Quite easy when tall I reckon, felt like 12d. 2nd try
_{5.13a ^↓}

santa_sends

_2021-10-16

Ho ho ho
_{5.13a ^↓}

Colton

_2021-10-16

Joint effort with santa
_{5.13a ^↓}

niallhamill

_2021-10-15
_5.13a

danydalpe

_2021-10-15

Just the best
_{5.12d ^↓}

jah4pwr

_2021-10-13

Direct hehe
_5.12c

ryansklenica

_2021-10-12
_5.12c

Wazoodles

_2021-10-12
_5.13a

Jesse Clark

_2021-10-07

Bit of desperation and fight at the end. Great line.
_5.13a

koltenmarino

_2021-09-26
_5.13a

dklatt

_2021-09-04

What a ride.
_5.13a

Weiwei

_2021-07-03
_5.13a

morganshankman2

_2021-06-16

Went left so 12c? 13step the same day with reid. He somehow convinced me of a 13 12 11 10....7? :) Goood day !
_{5.13a ^↓}

pheney

_2021-04-23

Less than ideal skin and conditions took me to the chains on the last promising day of the trip before heading home... thanks Mikaela for holding the rope and Brado for telling me not to worry about clipping the final draws over the roof! Psyched to cap off the spring season with the last of the 3 top 100 13a’s in the bluffs.
_5.13a

brandosky

_2021-04-05
_5.13a

Sam Wall

_2021-03-27

nice to have the wind pick up while resting at the no hands!
_5.13a

Amy Sutley

_2021-03-18

Awesome!
_{5.13a ^↓}

WolfLarson

_2020-11-05

Putting the draws up today , the low crux is hardest !
_5.13a

hudsonmayhew

_2020-10-19

Super fun route. Sent on my 6th try, really comes down to two boulder problems... I went right at the top which is apparently “the way the route was intended to go” do whatever you want but heading right is a sick boulder problem!
_5.13a

Jaro Beskyd

_2020-10-12
_5.12c

Mark Cottrell

_2020-10-12

stayed left at the top, second go
_5.13a

Nico

_2020-07-10

2nd go
_5.13a

Tom Tildrum

_2020-07-09

Surprise send - second go this trip Third overall. The top crux felt nails hard until I had the sequence. stayed right and direct for the grade. Shout out to everyone who mimed me through the top beta...
_{5.13a ^↓}

Francois Bergeron

_2020-06-01
_5.13a

Tayte Kosmerly

_2020-05-01
_5.13a

Jennifer Slater

_2019-10-14

A bit of a surprise send! Was fun figuring out the beta on this one and I didn't escape the crux by going left..
_5.13a

Denis Klocek

_2019-09-01

3rd go. Beauty!
_5.13a

miloskosc

_2019-06-06
_5.13a

Spencer Bethel

_2019-04-26

Such strong focus and energy had to be put into this one for me. Fun 5.12 climbing leads into a hard boulder problem which took quite a while for me to unlock. Was stoked to clip those chains..
_5.13a

hunterlee

_2019-04-22

Great sequences broken up with great rests. Loved the flow on this line! Sent on 3rd send go Fastest 13 send to date by far.
_5.13a

simonalexanderwyvill

_2019-03-17

Don't want to give anything away, but apparently there's an easier way to do it than what I did. Some time in 2019
_5.13a

Joshua L'Heureux

_2018-10-13

My first of the grade! After a summer of rehab, with nothing but campus boarding and a bit of bouldering, this was the pefect project to take on for the end of my season. Took about 10 attempts, mostly to decide which of the 100 possible lines worked best for me. I certainly leveraged my height on the finished product. Super proud of this one.
_5.13a

bradenbester

_2018-09-28
_5.13a

kaisaunders

_2018-09-24

Send on my first try of the session! Stoked to call this a mini project. 6goes over two weeks.
_5.13a

Owen Smith

_2018-09-19

First 13 I ever tried. Second 13 redpoint. Really hard crux right below the chains. Sphincter Clincher.
_5.13a

shanewilliams

_2018-09-11

My first 13!! I loved this climb and I'm excited for the next challenge !
_5.13a

Andrew Wexler

_2017-10-17

A great bouldery climb seperated by a rest. I found the final crux pretty hard! It seems like everyone does it differently...
_5.13a

seanmcdonah

_2017-10-16

Pretty great line with a tough finish! Psyched to finish it!
_5.13a

Zach Watson

_2017-09-21
_5.13a

loicfujinaga

_2017-05-19
_5.13a

dexterbateman1

_2017-05-15
_5.13a

janherman

_2017-04-25
_{5.13a ^↓}

BZ

_2017-04-23

Cool climb, good looking route. I would likely be more of a fan if there was a higher desperation factor - I like active rests.
_5.13a

Mason Tessier

_2017-04-19

Tried it once last year and the top crux felt way to hard. Got on it today and sussed the straight up beta, two tries later and I was clipping the chains casually. Stellar line!!!
_{5.13a ^↓}

Maddy Marchuk

_2016-10-12

Fun climb, boils down to two cruxes separated by good rests.
_5.13a

Alex Bourassa

_2016-05-08

This thing was. Mental hurdle for me. Hadent tried it for just about two years. When I first tried it it felt so confusing and very hard. This was first time back on it since then. Awesome to notice huge improvements! Hung draws then sent casually! Thanks for this one Cody!!!
_5.13a

Yannick Neufeld-Cumming

_2016-04-28

Rad climb. Tricky boulder problem.
_{5.13a ^↑}

alexfricker

_2016-04-20

3rd go, very fun, cruxy route
_{5.13a ^↑}

adamcurrie

_2016-04-11

A wild ride for sure. This thing is hard !
_5.13a

Simon Yamamoto

_2016-04-09
_5.13a

Julia Bobak

_2016-04-01

Wrote this off as too hard after the first couple of tries. Glad Marcel dragged me back. First non-Horne 13a!
_5.13a

Marcel Aarden

_2016-04-01

Had to put the try hard face on at the top. Fantastic route!
_5.13a

jonathandeanurness

_2015-10-14

beautiful climb with a technical upper crux. Super fun :)
_5.13a

Tg

_2015-08-22

2 trips, 4 days, 11 tries, So happy!
_5.13a

jamesfillman

_2015-05-18

7 tries. Had to change my beta on the boulder problem finish. Really fun climbing.
_5.13a

Dan Beland

_2014-09-01

Could be my best onsight to date. Tricky climbing throughout. Just barely pulled through the top boulder problem. Hard sequence to read. Great route.
_5.13a

Paul William

_2013-09-28

Got er done. Fought off the wild winds.
_5.13a

Tom Wright

_2013-04-05

Wahoo! sent on the last burn of our stay in Skaha - the last boulder problem is awesome once you figure it out
_5.13a

Anonymous User

_2011-10-12
_{5.13a ^↑}

Evan Hau

_2011-09-21

First time I did two 13s in a day.
_5.13a

Pete Lindgren

_{2010-05-10 (FA)}

Thanks Cody for cleaning, bolting and letting me climb this route. Super fun. 2nd try.
_5.13a

Graham McGrenere
_5.13a

tristanwilliamploughman

Climbed back in the fall.
_5.13a

Jannat
_{5.13a ^↑}

Francois
_5.13a

leonasiaw
_5.13a

evathompson
_5.13a

brendanmccallion

Show 70 More Sends

3

_onsights

1

_flashes

71

_redpoints

Total Sends: 75

Sendlists With This Climb: