Doctors' Wall

44 Sport Climbs, 5 Trad Climbs


One of Skaha's most popular walls is a soaring sweep of orange-streaked gneiss that rises above a jumble of large boulders. The flanks of this crag host a decent collection of quality 5.10-5.11 sport climbs, but the real prize is the central wall, a sector lush with intricate and physical 5.12-5.13 lines that stretch up to 25 metres or more. Oddly, the lowest layer of this wall is crumbly kitty litter, but the routes work around it and it doesn't seem to diminish their quality. The base of Doctors' Wall is a popular place to lounge and, on most any weekend, you'll have to trade burns on your project with a variety of climbers. For those looking for friendly moderates, check out the nice collection of short sport climbs in the Fern Gully boulders below the amin wall. There's something here for everyone...

Conditions: Doctors' Wall faces due east and gets blasted by the morning sun, which is great in the cold weather. The pitches between the boulders in Fern Gully stay much cooler and get limited sunshine, some not all. It's possible to climb a number of routes here in light rain since the crag overhangs and there are "rain" anchors below the upper slabs. Use the photo topo to see which pitches work best.

Directions / Travel Info:

Approach: From the map kiosk in the lower parking lot, follow the main hiking trail to the abse of The Fortress. Once there, turn right and follow signs that lead to Red Tail Wall and on toward Doctors' Wall. Just beyond the north end of Red Tail Wall, the trail trail passes a toilet before continuing uphill on the far side to a small plateau and a signed junction. Hike straight through and on to the top of the hill where the southern tip of Doctors' Wall becomes visible directly ahead. Wander along the main trail to reach the base of the crag in less than a minute.


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