Show Beta
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Jennine L'Heureux: Used a finger jam with my middle two fingers in the crack at the crux and leaned my weight completely left on it to get a high foot and cross up onto the jug.
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kaisaunders: Hold on.
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Jimmy Blackhall: Do the extension pitch of 5.10+ climbing. Adds a grade in my opinion 🤙🏼 -
Jesse Clark: For the crux I went left hand side pull, high left smear with a right hand foot match. With the hand foot match you can essentially skip the slot and dead point to the jug right hand.
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Wazoodles: Don't do the shoulder move! 4 feet right is a sweet half moon, match this and pull for the jug. It cuts a lot of harder moves out. (be tall)
Recent Sendage:
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2024-05-03Curious high gaston movement. Tricky crux to read, but a classic line with amazing holds.
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Thought this one was harder than the Spell -
Either a soft 12 or a stiff 11 Hard to say -
Great climbing -
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if this was 12a on here i woulda claimed the 12a but since it's not yaaaaaaa... not 12a. SO fun tho. really enjoyed it -
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2023-04-19
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2nd go, wahoo -
Second go after having a bad foot slip! Third climb off the ledge today!
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Just a bolt or two of 5.12 climbing. Unsure of the grade, but a nice route. Hot October send. Crimps felt greasy!
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Very good.
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Not my fav off of the traverse but happy to have them all done. Felt on grade to me. Would suit gym climbers well, is probably why some people think its soft. -
So pumped holy -
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2022-04-21 -
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Book gives 12a. I'm so surprised I didn't punt this from the pump... I definitely cannot say long and pumpy are my forte, especially after not climbing on a rope much since November! -
2021-11-01 -
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95% credit to Jesse, beta master and confidence booster
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2021-10-10 -
Thought is was harder than the Spell. 3 goes in total -
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Never ending fantastic movement throughout, especially the crux. Definitely proceed to the tippy top anchor. -
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2021-09-13
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2021-03-17I swear I flashed it three years ago. But it felt pretty hard so good on me if I did..... I was a better then now. 2nd go today. Ulysee Andres and re
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2nd go, crux sequence in the middle still felt 12.a -
Super fun. Flashed on my only climb of the day after visiting 3 wineries. -
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2020-10-13 -
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Big moves between cool holds, happy to finally get on this. 12a is my honest opinion
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Thought it was an easy 12a but 11d makes more sense. -
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2nd go, this seems soft but I'll take guidebook grade??
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2020-07-09 -
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To the top. Good Fun! -
After various tried over a number of years the crux finally felt easy. Great climb to have projected
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Really fun, reachy but pumpy to the chains -
2020-05-01
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First onsight for the grade, whether that be .11d or .12a. I’ll take .12a, thank you very much, even if it’s soft. Awesome climbing.
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Good route, fun to see the height dependent crux done a few different ways.
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Flailed in the spring on it. A couple goes and sent it this weekend. -
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Attempted this once a few months ago and then never got on it again until yesterday. Got this on my first burn yesterday. Great climbing. Positive holds. This is highly regarded as one of best the 12- on the wall.
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Sent while putting up draws, maybe third try over 4yrs ha. My last 12- on the wall.
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2019-05-17
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Solid 12a in my book. crux move felt way harder than crux on blade runner.
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Super fun movement but it definitely felt soft. -
Liked it better than the spell. Kneebar rest in that alcove.
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2nd go
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Almost flashed.... dry fired 2nd go... shameful 3rd go send D:< Felt similar in difficulty to Building a Mystery the way I climbed it. -
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2019-04-07second go -
2019-03-31 -
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the spell is better -
Felt harder than The Spell, but looks like most people would disagree with me haha.
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Felt harder than the spell -
3rd go. -
Reality check! I need to train more endurance.
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Great climb.
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2017-09-21
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2nd go. Fuck the grade debate, this route was a pearler!!!!! I like climbing long
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Inconsistent climbing. Short hard crux, followed by jugs.
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2017-05-14
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Really cool crux. Felt tough on the first go. Chill on the red point. Crazy reachy. My 6'4" span almost seemed inadequate. Second go. -
2nd go . Long with awesome flow, big moves on big holds all the way through
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2nd go. Beautiful line and fun climbing. There may be easier ways through the crux, but I ended up pulling off a mono in a way that doesn't fit an 11d grade -
2017-04-14Big moves, cool crux. Agree with the 11d downgrade
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Nice climb, flows really well the whole way on good juggy holds. -
2nd go. Not as good as The Spell but still great. Feels soft but i think its a sandbag at 11d -
Where have you been all my life.
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2016-06-01More cruxy but less sustained than The Spell.
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2016-05-29Now graded 12a in the new book.
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I wonder if most people stop at the first anchor? Continuing to the top of the wall is like 5.10 jugs. I think it's 12a, but very low in the grade. Could be 11d if you were tall and stopped at the first station. All in all, great route.
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Second go. -
Second go, first double 12 day! -
Felt harder than The Spell to me. Smeary feet make me nervous. Thanks for the beta Mario! -
2016-03-26 -
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The softer 12a sibling of The Spell. Excellent movements -
Fun climb! Went first try.
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3 tries
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Crux is super fun. Kind of balancy below the crux.
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2015-06-19
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Awesome jug traverse at top -
three tries. Rad big moves
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3rd go 2 sessions. Lots of fun!
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Many betas. So variety.
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2014-09-27 -
Harder than building a mystery.
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2014-06-20 -
2014-05-25
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5.11dAnonymous User2013-10-12
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Cool, cool climb with sweet runout on jugs at the top! Pumpy, comiting movement
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Love how Sendage down grades all these soft 12a's. -
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2013-04-21
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2012-10-19
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2012-07-022 go on top rope , 1st try on lead
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2012-06-17 -
3rd go
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5.11dAnonymous User2011-10-12
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Fun route, took 3 goes to figure out the foot beta, thanks for the help with that Cody.
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2010-05-24Classic line. Super fun.
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2009-06-15
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32m
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Retro-flash - Love this climb... Never not do the extension!! big moves to big holds!!
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neat
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nice route
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2002-05-11 -
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2nd go. Great exposure
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2nd go...Harder than the Spell for sure.
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Though I was doing the spell. Oh well.
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39
onsights30
flashes101
redpointsTotal Sends: 170
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