Priapism – 5.12a
20m / 66ft, 9 bolts
Description:
This is the left most route on the wall adjacent to the replicant overhang. It is a decent route with a hard crux. It is possibly one of the only routes that stays completely dry all year round.
Show Beta
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faelanp: Left kneebar pad was useful at the crux -
julieg: Knee bar through the crux (right hand under cling, left hand to the side pull, right hand in to the Gaston above the left hand, then left foot knee bar, rock over to the crimp on the face).
Recent Sendage:
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Super fun! -
The key was getting the finger jam to stick. Numero 100 for the season ! -
2024-09-282nd go. Was pumped and skipped the crux draw, happy I hung on and avoided the ride!
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2024-09-12
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2024-05-20Don’t go right 😂
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It got HOT and I almost punted on jugs. I was ✨ u n c o m f o r t a b l e ✨ -
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2nd go. -
2022-07-092nd go. No crack climbing techniques required, only ape strength
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Pre fun, skipped crux draw. -
3 Days on and took a lot of effort to send. Fun! -
Triple 12 day -
2022-04-10
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2nd go
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Yawn approach to interesting climbing halfway up -
Constantly hard
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Second go today. Thanks bdaddy for the belay. This time around I've realized how good this climb is -
2021-08-07 -
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Tried like 3 years ago. Short hard section but fun. Learning to finger lock is paying off on sport climbs.
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2021-04-26
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Short crux but mega fun!
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2021-03-262nd go
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2020-10-10 -
Key heel hook at the crux. Hang off the roof to clip the chains or belly flop onto the roof and sit to clip the chains. Fun! -
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2020-10-03 -
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2020-07-06 -
WOW! this one's going down in my books.. First of the grade! -
2020-05-30Second go after hanging draws. Short crux that felt more about balance than strength. -
Heart breaking fall at the top when hanging the draws. Got it second go and did back, to back to back sends with friends. -
2020-05-22
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Tried once ages ago, cool down send this time.
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2020-05-17
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2019-10-13 -
2019-09-15Rainy day climb...second go -
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Good, crux is short, but pumpy.
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Good fun!
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2019-04-21 -
Actually pretty hard... -
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Hard but fun crux moves then exciting top out
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I had a lot of fun on this route. A nice piece of sustained climbing until a funky top out. How often do you get to pull over the lip on a steep sports climb?! 2nd go.
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2nd go. Fun climb. Got a good pump by the end! -
Stays dry in the rain!
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2018-06-10Managed to grab the only wet holds yesterday,, first try today.
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crux was a tricky read, but after good feet, 3rd try was smooth!
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2017-06-05
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Difficulties are short but is quite pumpy
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Kinda committing move at the top, not sure why the bolt is so far right... climbed it tired so maybe it was fun...?
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I liked this more than everyone else seems to. Fun moves in the crux. Sent it second try -- would be a really hard onsight. -
My least fav route of the trip. Maybe I was missing something, but the crux felt really awkward and desperate. -
2014-06-27Never ever wet. -
Second try. Tricky crux for me to onsite. The heel hook made it feel much easier
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2013-08-29Second go -
5.12aAnonymous User2013-07-12
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5.12aAnonymous User2011-10-14
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would be better except for the 5.9 climbing for the first 5 bolts.
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Pretty cool that Ron hooked up with us. -
2008-05-10 -
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I found the crux hard to read, but managed to stick it second go
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First 12a OS
22
onsights12
flashes52
redpointsTotal Sends: 86
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