Red River Gorge

1,073 Sport Climbs, 52 Trad Climbs, 7 Boulder Problems

Description:

OVERVIEW:
The Red River Gorge—simply “The Red”—is one of North America’s premier sport climbing destinations. Its pocketed sandstone cliffs, steep overhangs, and endless variety make it a must-visit for climbers worldwide. The area is known for long, pumpy endurance routes, striking orange walls, and a friendly, tight-knit community centered around Miguel’s Pizza—an iconic basecamp for climbers.

STYLE:
Predominantly sport climbing, with thousands of bolted routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.15. Traditional climbing exists too, especially in the less-traveled Northern Gorge. Expect overhanging jug hauls, technical face climbs, and occasional crack lines.

ACCESS & ETHICS:
Many cliffs are on private land maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition (RRGCC)—respect closures, pack out all trash, and stay on marked trails. A small parking donation helps maintain access roads and facilities.

TIPS:
Bring a 60–70m rope and plenty of quickdraws (up to 18).
Conditions dry quickly after rain, but some cliffs seep for days.
Rest days? Hike to Natural Bridge or swim in the Red River.

VIBE:
Laid-back, inclusive, and fueled by pizza and red clay dust. Whether you’re projecting 5.13s or clipping your first bolts, The Red delivers a mix of challenge, community, and sandstone perfection found nowhere else.

Directions / Travel Info:

GETTING THERE:
The Red River Gorge lies about 1 hour southeast of Lexington, Kentucky. From Lexington, take I-64 east to Exit 98 (Bert T. Combs Mountain Parkway), then continue to Exit 33 (Slade). Turn left onto KY-11 toward Nada and Pine Ridge — this brings you into the heart of the Gorge. Most major climbing areas (Muir Valley, PMRP, Motherlode, etc.) are within 15–30 minutes of Slade.

LANDMARKS:
Miguel’s Pizza in Slade is the unofficial hub and best meeting point.
Gas, groceries, and supplies are limited — stock up in Winchester or Stanton before heading in.

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