Salvation – 5.12b ↓
35m / 115ft, 11 bolts
Description:
*TOP 100* One of Skaha's best 5.12's and highly recommended for Doctor's wall. Climb up the detached boulder left of the Offwidth, clip the bolt, step across the chasm and climb confidently through the variety of incuts on the overhanging wall left of the offwidth. A series of rests culminates in an exciting final move. Don't go right for the full value line. Taller climbers may find it soft, but the sting in the tail at the top gives everyone a run for their money! 14 bolts (24m) FA: Dave Lane, 1997.
Show Beta
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Cody: Clipping hold had apparently broke. I opted to use the wide crack out right to clip the chains. Probably easier. -
Jennine L'Heureux: Tons of beta. Use the tooth and get high feet. High feet for the reachy part and the hold is a jug. Skip the second last bolt because it's a waste of energy. Flip the Gaston to a pinch, get a high right foot and rock over before reaching up the to jug in the crux at the top.
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Caitlin Wolters: Burl the last move ;)
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Wazoodles: Put a nice long sling on the bottom bolt to protect the deep chasm behind the flake. Less drag for the send, also unclipping/leap frogging the 2nd and 2nd last bolt helps with the drag. -
Owen Smith: Commit.
Recent Sendage:
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outstanding. sustained, interesting, and with a bangin rest before the red point crux. go do it!!
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2024-05-04Way cool line above that bananas pillar. Required considerable faith to pull on the final crimp to reach the finish hold!
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so what I went out right grow up (edit: brendan Mcdondald said this is actually 11d if you go right so I’m taking that instead) -
2nd go -
“Gorgeous baby! Gorgeous!” -
Thanks Daniel for the draws and the beta. I tried this a few years ago and it felt impossible. Pretty stoked to send second go today. Awesome awesome route!! -
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2023-09-30Grabbed the chains on the onsight 😢, 2nd go
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Final climb of fourth day on of a four-day trip so I got pumped out of my gourd on this one. Epic climb for the grade. 2nd go.
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Great endurance rig -
Rad moves on the face! I opted to clip from the crack/arete, so a little easier that way. Not using those felt a little contrived. Had a really nice sunny day outing and basically had the crag to ourselves!
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A flapper and blood sacrifice was made prior
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Second try! :D such a good route -
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Skaha never seems to disappoint…..except for that one time. Blue bird skies at the bluffs in December couldn’t of asked for better temps/conditions. Thanks for the belay sketchy B! -
Yay (Tâ—¡T) -
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What an awesome climb! -
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Mean at the end -
2021-08-06 -
If you feel tired just climb to the next jug! -
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2021-03-17
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Awesome route! Perhaps since the clipping hold has broke that the chains could be extended. Might be closer to 12a in that case.
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2020-10-15Beautiful route on a beautiful fall day.
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I really enjoyed this climb. Really cool moves on incut holds. Apparently the anchor clipping jug broke off; clipping the anchor ended up being the crux for me.
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2nd shot -
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2nd go
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2020-05-03
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First 12b -
One of Skaha s best! Also one of the best 12 b i ve done period! Great mouvement on beautiful incuts holds! -
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Finally! Fell on the last move on my last 3 burns so I was ready for this send.
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2019-05-19 -
2019-05-19
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2019-05-12
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Wicked line of incut crimps and jugs on a wall that is steeper than it looks. Felt solid at 12b to me.
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verrrry niceeeeee -
2019-03-31 -
2018-10-252nd go , was very happy about this one! -
Very fun! Nice flow. 2nd try send.
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Fun! First route in a month... got a little overpumped :P -
PRAISE HIM ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ or her ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ whatever ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ climbing is fun! -
Quintessential Doctor's. Big move, big rest, repeat. -
Tried it once, two years ago. Got it this time on the hang. Heinous finish move. 21218 -
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2018-07-02Super nice route
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4th go, 8th day on of my trip. This climb is really nice, with interesting and distinct crux sequences and rests. I felt like there were a few too many bolts at the top, but oh well -
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2nd go.
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2017-09-03
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Amazing route, felt harder than 12b -
Really nice climb. Loved the movement and the ease of sorting out foot beta. This one flows all the way to the end!
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Propably most fun 12b in skaha? Do it right and dont go to the right at the top
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Warm up send, just needed some sun apparently. Don't use the right arete! -
2017-04-03
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2017-03-31
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fell off trying to clip the chains on the flash burn... -
First go today on the "oh i'll go hang the draws" burn. A classic route! -
Really great climb, last burn of the trip!
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Excellent climb! Take your time at the rests and you can pull though!
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2nd go. Fell off the finish hold on my onsight burn.
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2nd go. Milk those rests! First route on the beautiful Doctor's Wall. -
fun fun fun fun fun, then heartbreak. 5 tries. -
2016-04-02 -
Super stoked to clip the onsight. Really fun pulls though to good holds. Crux near the end makes for a good hard finish. -
Stellar climb, recommend
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Just getting back into sport climbing after 8 months of bouldering. Should have gotten this several tries earlier but screwed up my foot sequence after the crux. This thing is sustained, with a few cruxes and lots of PUMP. Sport climbing is hard!
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3 tries
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Pretty sustained overall. Some fun cruxy bits. Definitely a quality line. I was so pumped at the end. Actually fell clipping the go before the send.
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Such a nice climb - great rest before the moves at the anchors - "you are almost starting to look like a sports climber", Aldofo. Thanks for the beta!
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Yes! Freeman flash -
Went on 3rd attempt. Great Route!
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2nd try
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So fun. Plenty of tiny crimps to use for people under 5'5". The top might be a bit easier for us shorties?
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I would spray the "Almost OS" but that last move is hard...
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Fell on the last move on the OS. -
Tried this last year and hung at pretty much every bolt. Stoked to send it second try this year! -
Committing finish! -
Fun climbing, didn't commit to the move to last hold on my onsight. Sent despite the pump second go.
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2014-06-12 -
2014-05-25
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So stoked to get the onsight -
2nd go. Best climb on Doctors so far.
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2013-09-29Eliminate? I need a rest day. -
Nice!... -
2013-05-18Altzimers onsight? I can't remember how to spell it. Got it first go after chuffing 2 years ago.
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2012-10-20
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Second go. Denied the flash by the difficult to clip anchor.
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5.12bAnonymous User2010-12-02
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great route, felt a little soft for 7b but that may be because I am tall and this route is very reachy.
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Amazing route. I would have to say one of my favorites.
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My favorite climb at doctors! -
Hard last move
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you got to work for it but it's super nice!
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Therapy and Laughing Stock up on the Naramata Bench........now we are talkin`. -
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2008-04-25Pretty eat other than the crimpy thing at the end.
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Really Sick
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Log-book, No score
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brilliant
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Done on "Mike Doyle's Intro to Skaha Day".
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1997-06-14
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Reachy and pumpy
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Long and pumpy.
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Second try early in the season. Ultra classic
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last move got me psyched!
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2nd go. surprising after climbing desperately bolt to bolt on the first attempt.
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Really enjoy this one, suits my style well!
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Pure Joy, straight forward if you go for it, first 12b onsight
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34
onsights10
flashes115
redpointsTotal Sends: 159
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