Niagara Glen is the largest developed bouldering area in Southern Ontario. While it's just a few miles from the touristy chaos that is Niagara Falls, it's a world apart. Hundreds of boulders lie clustered between the cliff and river in a serene setting. With over seven hundred established problems, ranging from easy to V ridiculously hard, the Glen will have you coming back again and again.
The Glen offers a mix of pocketed overhangs, thin crimpy faces and slopey sandstone. The rock quality and landings vary greatly throughout. The area has been climbed for decades and unfortunately the dolomite polishes easily, so many of the classics will feel nearly frictionless. If you are willing to step off the beaten path, fresh rock and rarely climbed problems await. - Topout.org
Topo including the Bizarro area:
From the QEW heading east to Niagara Falls, take exit 37 onto King's Hwy 405. After 5.1km (3.1mi) take the Stanley Ave exit and turn right. Follow Stanley Ave for 1.2km (0.8mi) and turn left onto Whirlpool Rd. After 1.3km (0.8mi) turn left onto the Niagara Parkway. The parking lot for the Glen will be on your right after 1.8km (1.1mi).
From the United States, take I-190 west to Canada, entering Ontario via the Lewiston- Queenston bridge. Continue west on King's Hwy 405 for 2.5mi (3.9km) and take the exit for Stanley Ave. Turn right onto Towline Rd and then right again onto Stanley Ave. Follow the directions above from Stanley Ave. - Topout.org
Edit*** THE PARKING LOT IS NOW PAY TO PARK, A BOULDERING PERMIT GIVES YOU A YEAR FREE PARKING
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