banangela:5'2" beta: Start seated with left hand on lower rail, and right hand on the obvious good one. Right foot high in a little dish, left foot low, pull for my life to match left hand to right hand start, then slap my way up to the meathook and match. (This beginning sequence is the hardest sequence of the entire climb, but SO satisfying when you finally get it.) Grab the far left side pull, bring my right foot over to the left hand start, match my heel, stand up, and slapped a good sloper with my left, right hand changed to an underclingy piece, bring my right foot up to the right hand start, lock off, and reached up to the good crimp/jug.
Cat:Start hand matched, left heel on. Slap left hand up, travel the right foot up the face, right hand meat hook. Left hand to the far left side pull, leave room for a left heel. Tension, left hand grabs the rib above the right hand meat hook. Pop the right hand on a sloper. Left hand up to a crimp above the scoop, get the toes up higher on the wall, and right hand slam dunk on a jug.
kevinyu:Left heel or throw to the diagonal rail, take your pick
vonniesaur:Match right starting hand and shoot to right arete to avoid the super far first move.
nathanchow:First move can be tricky. I placed a low left toe as a press, and a high right toe and heel smear. I generated leftwards momentum with my left toe and right toe and heal to hit the far left hand. Keep driving the right heel into the smear to make the move as static as possible. A high left toe hook will make any later crux disappear!
Bertin Wong:Digging away the gravel reveals a nice chip for your left foot. Using a small pad also helps with the sit. A left heel hook can save some thrutchy moves as long as your hamstring doesn't break.
Wazoodles:Skip the greased sloper and go to the lip!
Farbod Etemadi:Being 5'4 made first move far! But I found with a higher right foot on the slab just below and right of your right hand start allowed me to stabilize and generate momentum necessary to grab the first left hand!
It was nice to come back after trying it a few years ago. I think this boulder is more beautiful than fun. Movement is okay, and it’s kind of annoying that it’s right by the highway. Glad to get it done anyway :)
One of the best climbs I’ve done in Squamish. Every single move is a pleasure to make. The left heel hook especially is such a great pull. Got this one with only a few minutes in the morning before the rain started falling.
With my beta it's a fully spanned big move to the slopping edge. Skips the bullshit with the frictionless left slopper. Huge props/happy birthday to LOUCAS for sending Porn hair just before this and for the tour of Squam-Classics!