benshema

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  • V6
    Dipping my toe in the water for rigormortis.
  • V6
    More interesting movement than Brave New World.
  • V6
    I think the guidebook V7 grade is only if you avoid the left slot under cling. However, eliminating this hold does not materially improve the quality of the line, and the glen already has too many eliminates. Downgrading makes more sense to me than eliminating. I think with the undercling it's V5/6. Took me about as long as other 6s but not sure if some of that was because it was hard to commit over the sketchy landing. Some people were saying V4 but I do not agree with turning a featherbag into a sandbag - better to have accurate grades.
  • V3
    High Step Arete is the better X boulder warmup I think.
  • V2
    Best x boulder warmup of the few bad options. Probably tied with rungs / colour the crag for my most repeated boulder.
  • V2
    X boulder warmup repeated several times.
  • V8
    FINALLY DONE :) After 9 sessions, 2 flappers, 1 pulley tear and 2 heartbreaking punts on session 7/8 I finally did the 2024 proj. So happy to have finally sent this thing. Really wish it would have happened on session 7 but after a goes I punted the top "easy" section and it got dark (since I started pretty late) and had to go home. On session 8 I got 1 move short of topping, decided to down climb to a jug to de-pump and fell during the downclimb. A real emotional journey but it's great that it took this long since now I can repeat the climb likely forever.
  • V5
    Almost definitely not an FA but I really liked this line and I wanted it to have a name. High end 4 / Low end 5 imo.
  • V4
    Plant your feet on 2 glassy smears, shred and mangle your fingers on awkward, sharp pockets and uncomfortably dyno to the top. Complete with pointless V0 intro climbing. Did it for the tick. I will say though finally hitting that glory jug felt good.
  • V6
    Nemesis sent! Probably some of the most unique and special moves in the Glen - this climb is one of a kind. Definitely not an aesthetic boulder - but climbs real good.
  • V3
    Kind of a hidden gem that I never see anyone on! A softy but a goody. I think noone does it since the start is unclear. The new guidebook (if and when it comes out) should clarify the starting holds since I needed to visit Dr. Youtube for a send video to figure out what where it started. It says start on 2 slanted holds at chest height but there are a dozen of those on the left arete of the X boulder.
  • V3
    Suggestion for who ever writes the next guidebook: I think this climb a lot better (and actually be V2) if you stand start on the crimps since from there and onwards it climbs actually quite good. I think the sit start move upgrades it to 3+/4-. In addition the first sit start move is really janky, ruining an otherwise good boulder problem. First move also increases the risk of someone accidentally climbing into arete love.
  • V0
    Moss and choss.
  • V6
    This boulder was kinda meh. Overall movement was interesting but its glassy, breaking, not too aesthetic. Also I don't get why people refuse to upgrade this clear sandbag but are trigger happy any time they believe something's soft.
  • V0
    High quality boulder! The Glen does have some good easier climbs apparently :)
  • V2
    Good warmup! Scope out the downclimb before you hop on.
  • V1
    In reality V0 but the downclimb is officially part of it which is basically a boulder problem in and of itself.
  • V0
  • V1
    Good climb. Don't think topping out is wise like the guidebook says since its pretty chossy up there.
  • V4
    Overlooked pretty good problem. I don't reccomend topping it out since top is kinda choss though. But the moves on the amin section are really cool.
  • V0
    No mats, hiking boots, the way John Sherman would have wanted it. I did this a long time ago but didn't remember the date. I walked by it on a hike the other day and thought this would be a good time to date the send. Probably tied with Haru Haru for best V0 in the Glen.
  • V6
    Sick climb, another awesome classic :) Wet conditions today but holds were pretty incut so it still went. I didn't do the heel.
  • V2
    This one is kind of cool - more holds keep appearing the more times you do it.
  • V0
    Nice climbing, decent top out, awful down-climb.
  • V6
    I was never too interested in this boulder and mostly did this for the tick. My opinion has not changed post-send. The meat of the climb was just a traverse with glassy feet and janky deadpoints. I enjoyed Chuck Norris (direct variation of same climb) much more. Very beta-intensive and pumpy but no physically hard (for the grade) moves. Not sure about it's "benchmark" status either - to me it felt on the easier end of the grade but I'm pretty sure I am alone here. Gotta remember to mat the top better when I come back for one inch punch since I fell from the top woulda been ugly.