Dylan Smith:Lock off leftward this makes right hand move to sloper far less dynamic
Jeff Wong:Lock off hard after the first move. The catch is not as dynamic as you think.
Zach Y:Left hand high on the rail as a crimp. Right hand slightly lower as a pinch with index finger taking most of the weight on a decent crystal. The foot placement didn't matter much to me when I found the good spot for the right hand.
3/22/2019: SO damn close to hitting the jug sloper. Gotta come back to finish this soon while I have my micro-beta dialled 5/3/2019: first session since March and after a whole bunch of tries dialing the beta back in, it went!
It is as good as the hype. Felt impossible until the send and then like a 7. Recipe for sending: 1) Wait out days of rain 2) Climb on on Mindbender as soon as its dry 2) Grab rock instead of endless layers of chalk. I feel like I've earned my Squamish merit badge.