Chicken Lips and Assholes – V6 ↑
Description:
Start on big holds and climb the right arete. This high quality climb puts up a fight right to the end!
Show Beta
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harrisonwhite: Crucial right toe near the arete. Matching on the bad sloper to makes the lip move easier -
Zach Y: Get the super high right heel and reach way up to the not great sloper. You can use the one good spot on the high sloper on the face to set the shoulders up better for the reach to the lip. https://www.instagram.com/p/CfSkKdxprJS/ -
Suzi Lu: High right heel to get poor right hand sloper
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Greg Bauch: Used a right toe just left of the arete to push to the top. -
Tucker Webb: Change heel hook from the arete, to a high toe left of the arete, to finish the problem off.
Recent Sendage:
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one of my proudest send. that throw to the lip is crazy
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First go on my fifth session. So stoked!! I feel like this took a lot of learning, finding the right spot on the slopers, locking in the heel hooks, and finally figuring out the right foot moving from the heel hooks to the toe. Overall awesome climb!!
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What a good climb!
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I sent a v10 before I sent this.. Soooo stoked I was able to check off this nemesis problem. The left hand sloper never felt good. But this time, I thumb wrapped a random crystal to the right of the sloper, and that was good enough confidence booster to do the bump up the arete. Everything else felt chill.
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Sent this years ago, but I guess I hadn't logged it.
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2025-08-02 -
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Accident went straight up the face the first time. Woops. Arete is much easier. -
Fun -
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Classy boulder, comfy rock, perfect landing.
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fun throw
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I can’t say I enjoyed it, but maybe better beta would have made me smile more -
2025-04-21
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so good wow
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🔥🔥🔥💦💦
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Honestly thought this was pretty awesome! Took a couple of attempts to talk myself into going for it -
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Despite the slippy conditions, I had a lot of fun
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2024-07-04
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brotha why is this climb so hard LOL
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2024-06-21 -
Super fun!
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Hurrah! I’ve always really liked the movement on this climb and was feeling stronger and braver today with good pals and good pads. Matched the sloper to do the big last move :) -
finally learned how to heel hook something on this one
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Thanks to the person who gave beta on how to grab the bad roght hand. Makes a huge difference
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so lovely. one of my favourites yet. very subtle beta heavy.
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2023-09-147 sessions
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2023-09-02 -
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So cool -
Sloper felt awful, but that seems to be the theme of this trip.
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2023-08-18 -
What an amazing arete with a b it tricky towards the top. The first move is also hard. Climbed it first go after not being able to pull off the ground last time -
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2023-07-30
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Big chicken is pretty contrived if you ask me. This seems like the only line
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2 years later. Nasty sloper and tough move to the lip. So fun!
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I think I did this a long time ago but I have no record of it. -
2023-05-16Second go. Slipped off the upper slopy pinch -
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2023-04-29 -
Amazing line! Condition dependent
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2023-03-28Committed ! -
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2022-11-12 -
Really fun. Went in a handful of tries. Way easier than I expected. Having a bit of beta and stoke makes quite the difference -
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Second go. Really nice climb.
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Lost the flash by not committing to the dynamic version of the last move. Static way was more my style -
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5 or so tries. Top sloper was slimyyyy. -
This was my project for a long time but today it felt really good. Very specific beta (after trying out everything), a good crew, and decent temps were all it took. -
2nd try baby! -
So much fun working this with Martin Derige, love the burliness of this climb, must do for sure
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2022-07-30
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2022-07-20
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Too damp and warm for reckoning… -
2022-06-30
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Watched a big group working this and got some great beta. Sent first go, pretty stoked.
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2022-06-25 -
Consolation prize after coming close on the Reckoning. Second try after punting the first move on the flash attempt. Sick climb!
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2022-05-04
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finally -
Sweet movement throughout but condition dependent. -
2021-09-16
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2021-09-04
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higher pinch!
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Fun throw to the lip! -
2021-07-10 -
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2020-11-07 -
a fun day of picnicking and speculation with DEM boulderers. it was great to climb my skin down to the bones on the eve of lockdown round 2. -
Barefoot ascent!
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Condition dependent -
Slopers are meant to be crimped -
A surprise send at the end of a great day -
Really enjoyed this one -
Ruined my flash burn trying to heel hook the start move. Second try.
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2019-08-12Fun to session w Eli and get back to back sends!
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really enjoyed the moves
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One of the best 6's in the forest. I'm slowly learning to heel hook!
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finally 😬 -
I genuinely didn't believe I was going to make the throw for the lip as I was throwing for it... Good thing I went for it anyways! -
got it 3rd try. supa fun -
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Fantastic move to the lip
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Amazing climb
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2018-08-10 -
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Get the right beta!!! -
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Went quickly once I moved on from the sloper with the obvious thumb catch -
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Really great climb. Fun moves all the way! Classic.
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Beautiful . love the name -
Felt v6 after following Patrick's beta, fun regardless -
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Great climb. All in the beta.
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Fun huck for the finish!
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Solo. Love the North Walls in the morning. -
Committing last move
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Took a brutal face-first fall off the last move on my first attempt. Second try went much better. Plus no noses were broken! -
Had the height to not have to heel hook the arete on this one. Felt close on the flash, but took a few more tries afterwards. A fun one for sure!
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Easier end v7. Hard move is taking off the heel and changing it to a toe for the big move.
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Fun movement
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2016-08-21 -
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The first time I got on this I didn't really enjoy the climb. New day, new attitude and it was an exciting send. The big finish move was a thriller!
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2016-07-29
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2016-07-23Was a cm short on the flash. Great problem
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2016-07-04Stoked!
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2016-07-03
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Weird. Ugh the conditions sucked. So hard to pinch in the manky humidity. -
Do si Do
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Great movement, precise finger placement on the arete. Feels pretty easy once you figure it out. -
Very cool last move to the lip.!
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2015-02-22 -
Unreal! So good that I climbed it four times.
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I like this problem but always forget the beta. Sloppy repeats. -
Wow. What a line
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Wow. What a line
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Low end. Neat moves!
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2014-07-10Not too bad once I stopped doing it wrong
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Awesome!
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2014-07-08 -
2014-07-01
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Nice line with a nice throw at the end!
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2014-06-11Felt tough! Wish I had a spotter.
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Finally bagged this. A great finish!
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2013-08-26
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2013-08-21
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2013-08-14Woooo -
2013-08-09
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2013-07-31wahoooooo sent in a day!
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2013-07-30
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After a few sessions and getting NOWHERE on the crux, I finally figured it out with the help of some beta.
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V7Anonymous User2013-07-14
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Fun slopey aret. Sent with a send train of 3, with Ryan and Tim!
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fun climb not super hard, seeing as most stuff in the north walls seems sand bagged -
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Second go, another fun tri-send!
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Really fun problem but, perhaps only V6
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very nice movement with a nice lunge to the finish, classic
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V6Anonymous User2012-10-10
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2012-08-12
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2012-08-04
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2012-08-01
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2012-07-06
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One move from a flash! Fun climb.
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Great fun! Like a comp route outside.
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2012-01-13Did it in the dark
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2011-08-31
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2011-08-24
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fun arete climb to a jump.
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Its all about the brush! rad problem.
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Had to try really hard on this one.
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Really fun problem on a great boulder!
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super fun problem!
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French flash
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would have flashed if i'd followed my feelings...sheeeeeit. wicks beta didnt work, got my high heel hook, game over.
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2010-07-25
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fun gym style problem
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almost flashed, 2nd go.
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So good! 2nd go -
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did it first try. super fun.
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Fun, found it very micro beta intensive
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First 7
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1
onsights21
flashes232
redpointsTotal Sends: 254
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