jacquelinegoyette

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  • 5.12b
    Finally after countless attempts at the main crux I figured out my beta. Fingers were dead. Next time I get on I am going to give it all I got now that I have my beta sorted out.
  • 5.12b
    I was surprised to see this logged as a 12A. I found it to be pretty solid 12B route. Short with technical thin moves from bolt 3 to 4 (if you stay left). Power move for me from 4 to 5 going into the flake. The finish is not a gimme either. Figured out some good beta using a good lower right hand crimp rather then using those crappy chalked up open hand lumps before the anchors. Wish it was longer. Still a great route!
  • 5.12a
    Keeping the Birthday trend alive. Sent another 12 on my Birthday. I found this 12A to be the easiest send to date. Big rest before the two main cruxes. Although the cruxes may seem to be confusing because there are so many holds. I would say it would be a hard flash but if you can keep your wits about you, have really good route reading skills and stick to your beta as you are pulling through. That would be impressive. Get a good shake out before you head to the anchors. Good undercling to do so. Fun route. :)
  • 5.12d
    I saw this route on the Sun Worshipper wall and it caught my eye. It's a short route but it delivers. No fluff, lots of cool moments especially the crux at the finish. Good rests when needed and has powerful moves, crimps, compression and you need technique. Power is not going to get you through this. This is my hardest route to project to date and I am really excited about it. I worked out most of the moves, now it's time to link. The hard part. Keeping my fingers crossed for some good days ahead to get outside and keep working on this route.
  • 5.11a
    Was going for a onsite but it did not happen. I went for the wrong holds which seemed the biggest but turned out to be crappy in the midsection. Oh well. Did it on my second go with no problems. Fun route.
  • 5.11c
    A surprise send! Took the day off work to go climbing because the weekend weather was looking bleak. First run up I had to play around with my beta for the main crux. Found some magical beta that worked for me. Went up a second time but was pumped going into the main crux. I kept going but didn't make it through. Third time was the charm. I got a rest before heading into the main crux. Executed the moves with no hesitation. Another great experience.
  • 5.12a
    I started working this route a few times now. Managed to figure out all the crux moves. The one crux at the end took me some time. It is a long move for me to the good ledge. Found a left hand crimp to use to help me get up to a okay mini ledge for my right hand. Bump right hand to another okay ledge. A lot of bumping going on. Maybe I can avoid the second bump and go directly to the good ledge. Pretty stoked to try this one again. 9/29/18 - Sent Gwelp! My first 12 in almost two years. Injured last year and I couldn't climb. I put the draw ups, fell at the third draw. As well need to figure out better beta sequence to come off huge ledge. Found a pocket for my left hand to stabilize then brought right hand over my head on a sharp side pull. Left foot way out left on a good foot. Rocked over to get to ledge. With that new beta in my pocket I was able to execute that move really well. Going to the next draw I worked out a better sequence as well. Less move and being more direct help save energy. Great send for me. I was in control, each movement was strong and I did forget where my right foot goes during the main crux near the end but kept it together and it came back to me.
  • 5.11b
    Crux for me was going to the second bolt. Left hand pinch slot was good but it was tenuous to clip from there. I say it was harder then a 11B for me because my left foot could not reach a good foot. I'm short and getting to the left hand slot was a little bit of a challenge. I climbed past the draw because I didn't feel comfortable pulling up rope in that position. It was a quick decision I made and glad I did. Made it through the crux. The rest of the route is easy. Just past the first bolt there are some crimpy holds before going into the left hand pinch slot. A pump section for sure.
  • 5.12c
    Got on this route for the first time. First three bolts I would say is the main crux section with mostly all crimps and some long moves. Some of the moves seem impossible to me right now but I always feel this way when I get on something new. Fingers definitely felt worked. :(
  • 5.11b
    Fun route! I sent this one last year but had a hard time repeating it. Finally sent it feeling strong through the final crux. Always came off near the last bolt before the anchors. Crimpy to a long move (for me).
  • 5.12b
    I got on this once. The main crux is big move from a tooth to a sloper. Feels impossible to me right now. Hoping to get back on it and give it another good go.
  • 5.11d
    Amost sent on second attempt. Pumped out at the end at the last bolt. Finally got this one. Last section is always so pumpy. You think you have it in the bag and then the pump starts. Fought over the mini roof and made it to the victory jug just before the last ledge to the anchors. Great route! Love this one.
  • 5.12a
    Really fun route. A couple fun cruxes. Nice rests throughout and great clipping stances. Really good for someone who wants to do their first 12A.
  • 5.12b
    Love this route. Suggested by my friend Sabrina. Super fun middle crux traverse. I have two ways of getting through this section. Not sure which way is more efficient. Either going straight up through two not so okay mini sloping ledges to a good mini rail or going out right to a farther dish still using one of the mini ledge for my left. Higher crux to get over lip. Make sure to have three fingers (IMR) in left hand crimp. Switch left foot for right foot in good pocket below. Get left foot up high on dish (lots of shoe scum). Make sure to take the time to look and place left foot properly. Rockover on left foot grab giant undercling pinch by pass block for right hand go directly to good jug by the bolt. To get to the anchors, just make sure to use that good flake for you left hand.
  • 5.12b
  • 5.12a
    Fun short route.
  • 5.11a
    Fun route and hard for an 11A.
  • 5.11a
    Really fun 11A. First section has some nice movement. Crux is mid-section not so bad once you find a camouflaged crimp. Not the greatest crimp but keep moving and things get better. Big jugs near the end.
  • 5.12a
    Birthday send! Fun route with lots going on. First section is 5.10D rest is a solid 12.a. Traverse is the main crux. Super fun moves. It's easy to get confused through the traverse. Many ways to get through it. Lots of pockets to choose from but make sure to be efficient. Another mini crux move after the main crux. Rest of the route is fun. Again lots of options for hands and feet. Don't miss the second last bolt. You can't see it from below. If you do it's a run out to the last bolt with a bit a crux move near the end. Fun first 12A. I would suggest this to anyone who wants to try a 12A for the first time.
  • V6
    Made good progress through first crimpy rail section. Made it to the block with right hand.
  • 5.11c
    Beautiful looking short but fun route. Fun main crux just past the third bolt.
  • 5.11a
    Fun technical route. Super clean arete slab. Lots of feet. Took a minute to figure out the main crux. Once I figured it out it was bomber!!!
  • 5.10c
    Tricky start, prefer clipping second draw before going around the arete. Another crux mid section. Get higher on the left hand flake and it becomes really good. Fun route!
  • 5.12a
    Beautiful route, shade all day. Beginning is a little dirty. There are peatons in between a couple bolts to keep your mind at ease. Main crux is in the middle. Go right don't go left (4th bolt?) even though it seems tempting. Come back left once you're at the bolt. Pumpy section not sure how I am going to clip this draw? We will see...Another crux after main crux but not too difficult. Remember to use your feet!
  • 5.10c
    Really fun route.