andrewlassetter:The last right hand before the top out is pretty tiny, but sticks in the cold weather. I jumped with a right foot on the first right hand hold after the starting holds, found a left foot on a smaller bulb about a foot or so to the left and slightly below the right foot I was using. Also, rather than pinching the far left hold (the big hold before throwing a heel hook) I found it easier to meat hook.
Only took me one previous session before coming back after a rest day to send it first go. Had to use the shortie beta with the right hand gaston, left hand pinch bumped to the left hand crimp. Static all the way.
Amazing climb! // First trip to Bishop, sent 2nd go - Alex and I had 2 and a half days off, so we went out on a whim - the trip was a great success—fun climbing, fun hiking, fun camping. Humma enjoyed himself as well, though he had to sleep in our sleeping bags to stay warm. I was pretty sick, and had just spent 5 days gorging on pie and cracklin oat bran, so everything felt impossible, but fun was had! Also got on Get Carter and Soul Slinger (couldnt move off the pinch), and went up to the Druids on Sunday. So many great climbs! Will have to come back some day.
No better way to spend my birthday this year. Amazing rock climb! Pretty fun to figure out all the micro beta on this one and put it together. A very, very satisfying dyno to a perfect finish hold and one of my fav one arm swangs ever. Impossible to overhype.
Tried it, couldn't do it. Came back another day, tried it, couldn't do it. Went over to Get Carter and sent in a few tries. Back to this one and after many more tries I figured it out and grabbed that damn jug. "Static" beta since my jumping skills are so pathetic.
Logging this as a repeat because I used the new beta. It's still a rad boulder problem this way, but the dyno beta is way cooler and a totally different experience. I think folks should strive to do both. Just my humble opinion.