Show Beta

• 
  maximerainville:   At the crux, right toe on rail, right hand on side pull, left hand on pinch, bump left hand to gaston, smear left foot to higher foothold, then bump again to the last sloper.
• 
  timwood:   Right heel toe cam, a couple left foot bumps, left hand crimp/spike way out left, right hand sloper
• 
  Will G:   Heel toe combo for the right foot in the crux pod made a big difference for me.
• 
  jordanchow:   Shorty beta: After gaston at the top, bump to a left hand crimpy pinch (its kind of undercling at this angle \ with a thumb catch on top) at around 10 o'clock from the gaston. then right hand to sloper.
• 
  Tadashi:   A short people may want to use the left hand crimp from the gaston to finish it.
• 
  Jeff McCord:   I rested with my feet perched on the ledge. Seems highly contrived to not rest there, but it did make the route feel wayyyyyyyy easier.
• 
  Mihoko Tani:   I like the technical move and upper crux!!

Recent Sendage:

• _{5.13b ^↓}
  
  duncangregson

  _2026-07-13
  "nah fucking I'm useless, gotta know what you're good at and this isn't it" -Will Gadd today
• _5.13b
  
  dan v

  _2026-06-20
  happy to put in so much work in such a good climb
• _5.13b
  
  Brendon Graves

  _2025-09-16
  Shocked to have sent this wearing a headlamp during an afterwork. First of the grade. Most work I've put into any climb and many thanks are due.
• _5.13b
  
  Sam Wall

  _2024-09-09
• _5.13b
  
  willantle

  _2024-06-25
  Very good, numbed out as soon as I hit the victory sloper, made the mantle a little spicy. Happy to put it together so quickly.

• _5.13b
  
  maximerainville

  _2023-10-20
  I honestly thought it wouldnt happen this season. After two months of projecting it, falling at that last sloper for over 2 weeks, I felt so close yet so far. The winter is arriving at our doors, and the sending temps were switching for sporadic rain all across the valley. The pressure to send was present, weather kept changing from sunny to rainy, after checking the forecast for a hundred time, seem like I had a window of good weather for the day, ending up being the dryest/grippiest day its ever been for me on this rock. Made my way up there with my buddy Tristen, warmed up and rehearsed on the crux section, brushed the holds, rehearsed again,brushed again... rested 15 minutes, then gave a go, foot slipped before where I usually fall, got so mad, took an hour to rest and question my life's choices, knowing I had only a couple of burns left before the snowfall 2 days later. After an hour of rest, jump back on the climb, feeling skeptical, pumped still, but angry. Flied through the first half/crux, rested and tackled the main crux with Tim in the background saying : its gonna stick, youre sticking it, come on dude! And I finally stick the sloper and topped Naissance de la femme, my first 5.13b and second 5.13. Thanks to Tristen for the awesome belay and for coming out with me, , Irene and the doggo for the cheering and support, and Tim for being an awesome partner throughout this summer on every projects. This climb is definitely the best climb ive ever done. A la prochaine fois...! Ps : tim, its only 12c if you start on the right side , just saying. And yes ill get you your fuckin ribs conio.
• _5.13b
  
  timwood

  _2023-10-15
  Oh my god what a battle. October was the wrong month to project this. Max you owe me ribs puta
• _5.13b
  
  AM

  _2023-09-28
• _5.13b
  
  andrewmuldoon

  _2023-09-02
  I enjoyed every try on this one, it was so much fun ironing out all the different nuances to make this thing feel dialled in the end! Thanks to everyone for the belays and big shoutout to Nate for spoon feeding me beta! P.S. I have never found so many different sequences through one boulder before. I think I had 5 unique methods for getting through the final boulder and just had to pick the most likely one..sick route !
• _5.13b
  
  Will G

  _2023-08-15
  Fierce. Tried this every five years or so for a day or two, finally committed to getting it done. One of the best pieces of stone and climbing in the bow valley! Send train with Rob, yeah!
• _5.13b
  
  jordanchow

  _2023-07-29
  ( ˘ ³˘)♥ splendid
• _5.13b
  
  nolanhaas

  _2023-05-31
  One of the best climbs! Stoked!
• _5.13b
  
  JD

  _2022-09-03
  But there is one realization all men of good will share: in the end our works make us feel ashamed, we have to start out again, and each time the sacrifice has to be made anew.
• _5.13b
  
  GF

  _2022-09-03
  So close to flashing it...
• _5.13b
  
  evathompson

  _2022-07-21
• _5.13b
  
  loicfujinaga

  _2020-08-16
• _5.13b
  
  Tak

  _2020-08-10
• _5.13b
  
  Sean Whelan

  _2020-08-07
  absolutely beautiful climb. Cant believe its over!
• _5.13b
  
  davidrea

  _2020-07-28
• _5.13b
  
  James Bull

  _2020-07-28
  Few things in life are perfect. This climb is one of them.
• _5.13b
  
  Nobo

  _2020-07-11
  Classic! Thank you for the left hand beta at the crux.
• _5.13b
  
  Weiwei

  _2020-07-03
• _5.13b
  
  Nick Theriault

  _2020-06-27
  Shout out to Kelly for the 🔥 beta!
• _5.13b
  
  Becca Frangos

  _2020-06-26
  Shoutout to Kelly for the shorty beta for the deadpoint at the top!!
• _{5.13b ^↓}
  
  Tadashi

  _2020-06-10
  Thanks for the short person's beta.
• _5.13b
  
  Dan Beland

  _2019-09-25
  Tricky! Fell a few times on the dyno at the top then got some top-notch betas from Kelly. Still fell a couple more times up there before reeling it in.
• _5.13b
  
  Ysbrand N

  _2019-09-08
• _5.13b
  
  alexfricker

  _2019-08-28
  Amazing route, such good rock!
• _5.13b
  
  Jakob Learned

  _2019-08-27
  mmm a simply scrumptious climb
• _5.13b
  
  Jeff McCord

  _2019-08-25
  Amazing limestone, amazing movement.
• _5.13b
  
  Danny Poceta

  _2019-08-24
  3rd go, good route
• _5.13b
  
  Joel Freund

  _2019-08-16
  Magical
• _5.13b
  
  Mihoko Tani

  _2019-07-25
• _5.13b
  
  Mason Tessier

  _2019-07-25
  Glad I waited for this one! Now I can appreciate the hype.
• _5.13b
  
  Spencer Bethel

  _2019-06-26
  Beautiful technical climbing on bullet proof limestone. Enjoyed every single second.
• _5.13b
  
  Simon Yamamoto

  _2019-06-02
• _5.13b
  
  Marcus Holm

  _2018-08-15
• _5.13b
  
  Sam Carr

  _2018-08-07
• _5.13b
  
  bradenbester

  _2018-08-03
  Dont have one bad thing to say about this climb. Felt amazing sticking that sloper! One of my favourite climbs to date. Lower wall is the shit
• _5.13b
  
  Michelle Lee

  _2018-07-21
  So happy to finally latch the sloper!
• _5.13b
  
  Andrew Wexler

  _2017-09-29
  Last burn, last day of the season. I failed way more times on the last move then I ever thought possible!
• _5.13b
  
  dexterbateman1

  _2017-08-18
  Amazing 13b test piece.
• _5.13b
  
  janherman

  _2017-07-12
  I was hoping to send this one in a single session, haha, not happening... Perfect technical cliimb
• _5.13b
  
  tristanwilliamploughman

  _2017-07-05
• _5.13b
  
  Maddy Marchuk

  _2016-09-26
  Mega classique! Sent on what I said would be the last attempt of the day and 2016 Acephale season...thanks to a magical rest I never found previously.
• _5.13b
  
  BZ

  _2016-08-20
  Usually, after I have worked a route, the flood of movement gets broken down into distinct sections and the climb begins to look smaller-less intimidating. As I approached this line for the send, I looked up to see that it had lost none of its stature. It is a badass route. Thanks to Maddy and Andrew for the Belays!
• _5.13b
  
  Andrew Funk

  _2015-07-31
  Birthday send woooooot! Haha third go. Awesome rock, awesome movement, and a heartbreaker last move.
• _5.13b
  
  Zach Watson

  _2014-07-12
• _5.13b
  
  benblakney

  _2013-06-16
  2nd go
• _5.13b
  
  Marshal Germs

  _2012-05-17
  Unreal that I get roll out climbing after work. Already a great start to what can only be a summer of dreams.
• _5.13b
  
  Bonar McCallum

  _2011-09-11
  This is a great route!
• _5.13b
  
  Vikki Weldon

  _2011-07-09
  Super psyched! First hard send of the season! A beautiful climb with a wicked heart breaker ending! Ended the day with my heart intact! :)
• _5.13b
  
  Josh Muller

  _2011-06-06
  low percentage last move
• _5.13b
  
  Evan Hau

  _2009-09-12
• _5.13b
  
  adamcurrie1

  _2009-08-23
  By far, one of the best at Ace!!!!!!!
• _5.13b
  
  marcus norman

  _2008-07-13
  hallelujah, praise jebus
• _5.13b
  
  Francois Bergeron

  _2008-07-13
  My first 13 at Acephale. One of the greatest in the Bow Valley.
• _5.13b
  
  Pete Woods

  _2008-06-24
• _5.13b
  
  Dung Nguyen

  _2007-07-08
  Finally, thanks Scott for the left foot beta
• _5.13b
  
  coffeepoweredknut

  _2006-07-30
• _5.13b
  
  Matt Pi

  _2006-07-25
  classic!
• _5.13b
  
  Olivier Matte

  _2005-08-07
  sequency
• _5.13b
  
  Tyson Martino
• _5.13b
  
  Derek Galloway
• _5.13b
  
  pheney
• _5.13b
  
  brendanmccallion