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Aidan: Chimney protects with a 4 though some smaller gear could be used in the back.
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danbliss: Learn to sport climb well first? :D
Recent Sendage:
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Led the 5.9 so followed the chimney with a pack. Not ideal.. had to clip it and dangle it off the belay loop… -
classic way up for gumbies like me -
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2025-06-22
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The crux pitch is fun. The last pitch is not a casual scramble as some might describe and I would definitely try to protect the moves.
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After long time no see to get to the top
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2024-09-06
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Led the 5.9 sport-y P? Thanks to Auston for playing guide for me
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2024-08-07
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2024-06-01
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2023-09-04
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2023-08-14 -
Followed up all pitches. First few 5.easy pitches felt more exposed than the final 5.9 / 5.8 pitches. Chimney was interesting. Climbed via Rambles / Banana Peel / Boomstick Crack for a total time of 4 hours from start to top out. 6 hours car to car including time to chill on the peak.
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alright... some of the climbing was decent, and some were chimneys. Yo fuck chimneys, all my homies hate chimneys. I lead the chimney pitch. 5.8 has never been so brutal on me. Again, the other climbing was decent. bringing the no.5 all the way up for just this saved me -
That chimney is no joke lol -
Really fun! -
Lead pitches 1, 3, and 5. Sent via Diedre and Boomstick. First runout 5.9 was a delight. Feels good getting more slab confidence. -1 star for the experience of seconding the chimney with a backpack. -
2022-07-21first time topping the chief!
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2022-07-17
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2022-06-16
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2022-06-1429th Birthday Challenge w/ Sarah (Pitches 15-22/29) -
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2021-08-30Fun lap w Evan -
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2021-08-24 -
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2021-08-09Finished the Triple on this! Started at 4:30am on Angels Crest, hiked to top of third peak then down Slhany trail, up North North Gully to climb North North Arete (not on sendage), hiked to top of second peak then around to the Apron trail and up Banana Peel/Butt Lite and got to top of first peak at 9:30pm. Super fun day with Ali!!
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2021-08-01 -
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The crack into traverse then chimney makes for a really fun climb. -
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Very fun and moderate finish to the routes that start on the apron.
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With Jo. Last two pitches are great! -
2019-08-10
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2019-08-09 -
Followed Mike. Tricky chimney. -
Fantastic finish to a fantastic day. First time climbing to the very top of The Chief. -
2019-06-02
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Really fun! Lead the vertical finger crack pitch. Followed the chimney. Chimney was kinda heinous but super cool!
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Very enjoyable. Felt excellent topping out the Chief after a long time in Boulderland.
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2018-08-19 -
2018-05-23
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2017-09-30 -
2017-08-23Wussed out on the 10c hand crack and did this. Super cool route, found the 5.8 at the end harder than the 5.9 pitch. Got some bad news at the top and ended up going extremely hypoglycemic with no food. Had to hustle kind strangers at the top for some food. Meg saved me here big time, I owe that dude a lot. Lead every pitch.
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2016-11-14 -
Super fun way to the top of the 1st peak. Would recommend for anyone's first lead up the chief. -
2016-08-25
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The chimney pitch was super neat! -
2016-08-06 -
2016-07-16
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2016-06-25
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Finally summited the chief with Dan from a wet diedre with lots of crowds. I found the chimney to be the crux, especially considering the good pro and bolts around the crux of the 5.9 pitch. Topped out with 20 minutes of light to spare. -
The 5.9 pitch felt a little easy, 5.8 pitch afterwards was kind of sketchy. Led all pitches.
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2015-08-13Did P1 10a variation
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2015-07-30Lead all pitches With Pixie -
2015-05-09 -
Incredible climb. Definitely difficult moves for a true 5.8/9 climber. Especially as exposure doesn't help but really great climb
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2014-08-01
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2014-07-28
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No the hardest trad I lead but my first rout to the top of the chief!
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Great day with minimal traffic. Linked from lower apron into banana peal
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2014-07-06shared the leads, led the 5.9 bolted pitch; airy!
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2014-07-02 -
Awesome fun been a long time coming!
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2013-08-24
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2013-07-01 -
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Finally climbed the chief! Only took 5 years.
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I agree with the others that the crux pitch could be intimidating for beginners. It's possible to get a blue Metolius cam into the crack behind the flake just make sure you put a long sling on it.
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Fun day! Great variation of the Buttress and well worth a go. Despite the moderate grade I'm not so sure I'd recommend this as a beginner multipitch route... significant rope management and some exposed climbing with minimal protection make you earn every bit of 5.9 (although I'd probably give it a 10a). As the book says... it's "no cakewalk for the given grade".
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Exciting climb, especially the crux pitch. Exposed and sustained crack climbing to a dyke traverse to gain the ledge. The offwidth pitch is tough to protect, but a #4 will work with a finicky placement. -
2011-08-19
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Solo
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Fun ramps lead to the top of the first peak of the chief. -
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Onsight solo
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weerd
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One 5.9 move, the opening 5.8 pitch or the chimney are the actual crux pitches. -
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A really nice alternative to the regular buttress... except for the scary runout chimney.
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100
onsights9
flashes12
redpointsTotal Sends: 121
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