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braydenjohnstone: Short Person Beta!! Toe around the far right, nice and high for a right hand bump throw to the big jug. Super secure, way better than the tiny heel.
Recent Sendage:
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hard skin make sharp crimps easy? 2nd try of the day. Am i sand bagger or could this be V8? -
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Very much an anti-style climb for me. I think the no-hangs have been paying off. Cut through my thumb skin on the send go.
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Sent with the layback bump beta, not the heel hook. A little soft for 10 so I guess the guidebook is right for downgrading -
Really sick climb. Had a mega romp sesh with great buddies today in this beautiful spot!
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If you use the big obvious jug it makes it a lot easier. The Jug is definitely in play -
2.5 times. Once with alternate (better) start, once with matched start and once with matched and whisper left foot dab. Never with any of the juggy arete features out right because why ruin a good thing, steep compression on small crimps😅 -
Hot crimps. Bumped left for the finish
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Soft second go. Stupid foot visualization failure killed flash dreams. I’m shit. Easy. Would be 5+ stars if bloc suspended with stand start -
Not sure whats in or out on this one; Used the toehook arete hold as it looked cleaned in the Guidebook photo, but stayed clear of the rest of the arete. Big move out to the arete beta felt like v8+/v9-. Almost got it with conventional beta after, which felt slightly harder for my height. But too tired. -
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One session. Felt very my style and fun, not hard in the grade -
So much fun!
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First try after feeling out the moves three years ago. The holds are painful but its all worth it for the last move. So much fun!
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Technical feet at the start, to some proper crimping, to a glory jug toss. Excellent! Lots of beta variations possible -
maybe this was just my style, but I didn't think there was anything v10 about this. worth the hike, but not amazing -
Really fun. I enjoyed the compression. Did not use the right arrete. Still felt around v9 because I had no skin and still fired it off in a few tries. -
Taking the guidebook grade (probably easier in less humid conditions, the fan making it climbable - not bad for 20 bucks!). With Annie, Kyle and the legend that is Betty! Fun afternoon after brunch. Extremely cosmopolitan
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2021-09-11
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Did it using the toe hook arete beta which makes it easier. Logging it for now until I go back to do it the intended way -
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Ez bop. Fun one
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The nemesis is done -
Really fun. Sent it on the second go -
2021-06-01
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pre tape to save that skin
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I didn't need that thumb skin anyway. Either soft 10 or hard 8. There isn't any other possible opinion.
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:)
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Extremely fun climb, and my first V10 (even if some people downgrade it). Very crimpy, and with a wicked throw to the finish - I almost feel famous.
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Very fun definitely easier than some tens -
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Should of flashed but right hand punted, pulled straight back on and did it -
Guide book grade, felt pretty hard for me. But doable. -
aggressive -
Nice one! Went quickly once I dialed in the footwork beta -
Easier than Tim’s arete -
No way it’s even v9 I’d say a decent 8. Worth doing tho.
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Really great crimpression. Threw a big right toe hook around the arete for a very easy final move to the jug.
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Harder than many 10s I've sent and some other 10s feel on par. Granted, crimps are still hard for me. About 10 total goes. More like a 9.8 for me.
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No where near a 10, come on.
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Had to try real hard on the opening moves. Easy end of 10, sharp as heck! -
So fun! Not sure on grade? -
Stop down-grading V10's you butts. -
could also be a hard 8 -
Quick sendage on my 3rd send burn. Crimping test piece, which is why I'll be glad to never try it again since it ate my skin up really quickly
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Fun compression climb, not too bad once you work out the beta. The trek was a little tricky and icy. -
First of the grade for me, so in my opinion soft. Sharp though, ripped open two pads on my right hand and just barely sent with both pads taped. Don't need to cut feet to the jug if you don't want to.
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Sent in one session, and compared to other 10s is a bit softer in difficulty, and once I figured out beta for the left hand bump sequence it went without much issue. In total, about 7 attempts before sending.
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I'm taking book value on this. Felt intense if you ask me.
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December squamish is a good kind of squamish -
2017-11-08Hidden gem. Worth the walk.
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2017-10-29So glad to have finally come to this problem. Great moves on uncomfortable crimps! Psyched! A few goes - felt like V9 for me.
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beautiful problem. well worth the 'hike' and scrambling around to find. bit scary to try solo with two small pads but i found a way out of the jump so it worked out safe enough. -
Would be 5 stars if it wasn't so sharp
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Tape up for this one
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V10 in guidebook...first 10 have to take it. Soft for sure...crux for me was just setting the right foot for the thrutch move out left. Wish it were more sustained, but it's a great line.
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Wasn't a fan of the climb, probably because I climbed it like a chuffer. Had a lot of fun though with the crew, lots of screaming!
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2017-08-12 -
Sick compression on sharp crimps. Rampage with Pete and Ash continues...
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Saved my flash for a long time and it was worth the wait. Quite a bit easier than some classic 9's though
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Worth the trek up. -
A friendly little arete problem, well worth the effort to find. I was really struggling, trying two different method others have used. I eventually found a third way, one that worked for me at which point it came together quickly. Pretty cool there are at least three completely different ways to do the crux opening sequence. Vid on my instagram.
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Great climb! And the approach isn't as bad as the guide makes it out to be if you head right from The Stallion.
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Sent this on the first day trying, so it might be a little soft seeing as it was only my second v10, but it fit my style well. -
I was able to hit all the moves on my first session, which I was pretty psyched about given I haven't climbed outside for the last 3 years. It's some stiff moves but there are only a few so it's probably a bit soft for the grade. Given my height (5'3"), I start with a right heel on and a left foot on an edge, and come into the right hand with a thumb pinch. Left foot toe for the right foot release to bring the right foot up to a small edge. I compress to bring my left heel up to the starting block and then statically reach up left hand to the good edge. The next few moves are straight forward and just take a bit of pain tolerance. Really cool boulder and location. Good climb.
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I’m very flexy
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onsights2
flashes73
redpointsTotal Sends: 75
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