14m / 46ft, 8 bolts
Description:
"Not Fade" as it is affectionately called is a right of passage for any climber looking to get into steep climbing. This route is fixed and very fun with every bolt posing its own unique climbing challenge. The higher you get on this route the harder it becomes with the crux very near the top.
Show Beta
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Chad Clark: Try hard then crimp harder. -
markjanzen: Some heel hooks that made the clips a bit easier so that I didn't pump out at the top -
tula_sherkat: After the finger lock/crack I went out left to the semi jug and then went up above my head with my right hand. Used a small intermediate crimp for my right hand before grabbing the finish clipping hold. Gets pumppy at the top so climb the bottom as quickly as you dare, it pays!
Recent Sendage:
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First go I did it with one take... Tried it a bunch but just couldn't get the last moves... It was a heartbreaker. So came back a second session for a revenge send... Got it second go that day. Barely go the holds on the face. What a great climb! Second 12b! Taking the book grade
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Get the top sorted first. What a heartbreaker finish.. -
Super stoked to clip the chains on this one! -
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Took me an eternity for my warm up project now it's behind me. Still a Classic
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Way easier with healthy pulleys. Right heel toe cam helpful for the topout.
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Absolutely loved this one!!! Felt hard end 12a but tough to say whether its 12b -
funky footwork to make the top crimps easier
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Felt harder than crestfallen -
Super fun movement. Probably more 12b than 12a.
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Morning send with a sweet crew. This one took a minute to send -
You could have heard a pin drop whilst I rested on the lip as a group of 10 crushers anxiously awaited their turn for a burn on this mega classic. Great day surrounded by a great group of friends! Thanks for the belays Ben Lea! didn't take as long as Resistor in Mara.
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first 5.12 -
2022-01-23 -
11b/c jugs to the last clip, then a V2 boulder problem on good but small crimps. -
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Sweet climb with some cool beta that made the climb flow well. Glad to get the send and not just pump out at the top.
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2021-04-04
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fun jug haul, Cairney ruined my onsight by telling me to go left.. ha ha -
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12a seems right. Amazing jug hauling, good foot work reduces the pump by a wide margin! 3 trys -
The war is over
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No way its 12.a. Took me a few sessions, maybe 9-10 tries or so. Really good, CLASSIC -
The last perma draw is quiet worn and the bolt hanger is quite bent. Found pretty hard at 12a, but not my style so it’s probably just me. Pretty polished gym style climbing!
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Feels wrong giving this 12a, but classic steep route either way. Fight to the end! -
2020-10-17 -
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2020-07-12
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Aaaaaaa! After projing this climb for a couple years, I was super psyched to nab the send. Super psyched I got this Skaha classic. Dad with the send belay!
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2020-05-02
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2020-02-02only took around 30 tries over 4 years -
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Good line, definitely not 12b though.
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2019-09-08
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2nd go only just haha. -
Punted many a time. Super fun route! Feels easy for the grade but still feels harder than 12a -
2019-04-27
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Can't believe I hadn't ticked this one off yet. Great climb, although I prefer longer efforts.
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Such fun climbing... but save your crimping power! Good time working this with Sam!
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Get to the top and fall at the anchors for 2 years and then send to get the full experience. -
2019-03-08
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2018-10-24One of the best 12s at Skaha! -
Worth the hype! Sent in 3 sessions over a week. -
Finally got this climb after too many tries. Amazing climb, and felt so good to clip the chains!
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2018-08-29stupid crimps at the top got me for so long! -
Really good, lives up to the hype. Managed to get the "amnesia onsight" today after trying it 4 years ago :)
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2017-09-21
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What a great route! Great steep movement with a hard crux guarding the chains! Powerful and
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2017-05-14
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Amazeballs! Got on this years and years ago... disliked it immensely because I was weak and a giant pansieflower. Couldn't even make it to the fourth draw. I still be weak and a giant pansieflower, but I got it and loved it. Second go. -
Haven't touched this one in 2 years, so I was psyched to finally clip the chains today! Great fun :) -
Gets the most attention of any climb in skaha. Probably deserves it.
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Stellar climb, so stoked on the send. Figured out some of my own beta to stop the foot cut. -
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Fully refined and still hard. -
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Really good, powerful dynamic movement down low to some fingery crimps up high. 2nd go. -
Flows beautifully. Clipping hold was soo greasy :)
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Stupid beta is stupid. -
2016-07-15After a full morning of climbing and eating too much lasagna I felt like a brick with spaghetti limbs by the time I jumped on this. -
That finish is tough. Fell on the crimps twice today before getting the send -
Too many tries over two rainy day Wave sessions. The movement on this thing is super cool! -
probably climbed this route about 15 times before the send. Super duper route though -
2016-03-31Last try of the day, on the last day of the trip!
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5.12aAnonymous User2015-10-15
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Wicked stuff. Took a couple goes to optimize the beta, then it felt solid!
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Longest project to date, probably my most favorite route ever. -
Fun! second go. i was told the crux was at the top on the smaller hold. i tried to skip them! -
2015-09-02
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Fun climb. Tried it once many years ago.
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After three trips and about 20 tries, I finally managed to pull the crimps at the very end. Awesome movement through the overhang to the lip, with a couple of small crimps to shut you down. Didn't notice until I got down that I strained a finger on the last pull. -
Is it a right of passage at skaha to whip on the last move? -
third try. each try spread out over a year or so. Classic!
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Should've flashed it (belayer didn't know how to use a grigri). Sent second attempt. Sent in approach shoes on third try on the route. Super fun! First 5.12!
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2015-04-05Good to be able to send this again after all these years. Still just as stiff at the end. The addition of fixed draws was nice. Though it does seem to funnel the trafic at the wave all to one route.
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2015-03-31 -
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2015-02-01Love it! 2nd go. -
2014-10-182nd go.
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2014-05-08
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2014-04-27Awesome climb. Got the send in the rain, first out door redpoint in forever!
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2014-04-25Fun stuff! Feels like a gym climb. First route outside in FOREVER!
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Really fun! -
2013-08-29Second go-definitely one of the hardest 12a's I have climbed!
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First Skaha rock climb. This is a classic. Fixed and fun. -
fell on the last move on my first go - fun -
FINALLY! Tried this bad boy oodles of times in my teens. Didn't hop back on it until about 8-9 years later. I guess I have improved :)
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5.12bAnonymous User2011-10-12
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Holds getting polished, but a kick in the pants at the top.
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Fun and steep. Really nice wall.
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Has apparently been upgraded to 12b, which I think is fair.
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Too many tries
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2011-04-222nd go - slapped the end on first attempt.
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super fun moves on good holds.
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pumpy boulder problem!
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Tips numbed out and pumped off on OS attempt because it was so cold today! Got it 2nd go though. -
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Great roof route. Soo fun! 3rd go.
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Good
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5.12a ↑Anonymous User2005-09-05
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I felt like Kevin Bacon in Footloose. -
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nice climbing
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2001-05-22 -
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13 tries!!!
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1997-06-01
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Super amazing climb! First 12 and definitely best done so far!
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Jugs to 2 move crux
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good to put this one down after my many days of epicing on it my first couple years in Skaha.
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Did this one the day after Jason got his amnesia onsight. Very fun fits my style well but definitely comparable to other 12b's at skaha.
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Classic and fun!
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10
onsights10
flashes129
redpointsTotal Sends: 149
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