The Grand Wall – 5.11a (trad)
Description:
The proudest line up the Stawamus Chief, this classic climb goes through world class lay backs and jams up crystal clean rock.
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Dan Beland: If you're short the 1st bolt ladder is tricky and there' a dyno on the flats. -
Donn Goodhew: L led Apron Strings, then I took 1,2,3 to the Split Pillar. Lyn led SP and the Sword. I took Perry's and to the top. Rack for next time: double cams to 2, one 3, one 3.5, draws, slings and biners.
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Jamie Chong: Approach the Pillar via Apron Strings or Cruel Shoes for a full on day.
Recent Sendage:
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Just phenomenal! Ripped it in the dark with Kieran! -
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Free except the split pillar
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Nearly threw in the towel on split pillar, but dug deep and here we are! Climbed via cruel shoes for some extra spice
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Repeat - previously climbed 09/21/2017. 6-Pitches, climbed with Ella Taylor. Linked from Apron Strings & Merci Me, linked into Upper Black Dyke. Busy day with 6 parties on the wall, 14 hours car to car.
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2024-04-15
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Have revisited this climb each year for the last 3 years, does not get old! Lead odd numbered pitches plus the last pitch.
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An excellent shared first experience of both Jack and my first time summiting the chief like real rock climbers. We alternated leading pitches with Jack leading the first, incredible run out 40m (3 bolts) , I lead the second 5.9 pitch. Jack then lead the third, strange, down climb to a traverse, to a bolt ladder pitch. I then geared up for a pitch that would challenge anyone with as much crack experience as me. The Split Pillar pitch. A 10b that can be laybacked with exceptional strength and endurance, or hand jammed. I taped up my hands for the first time and jammed to victory. Jack then lead the hardest pitch after that, the Sword 11a. He was nervous but he climbed it like a pro, with a clean flash. The next one was a 5.11a layback that was all bolted but we were mad tired at that point. Each smear was ver delicate. A few more alternating lead pitches later Jack and I made it to the top. A time I will never forget, glad to have shared it with one of closest friends. -
Sent clean after trying for the first time 3 years ago. Definitely felt my evolution from boulder bro to trad daddy. Swinging leads -
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👌 -
2023-05-11
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Led all pitches (7, 9, 10b, 10b, 11a, 11a, 10a, 10c). Split Pillar was the highlight. Bolt ladders were the lowlight.
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Can you onsight if you swing leads?
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Climbing the giant rope after the sword pitch was my favourite! -
The best thing I have ever climbed -
All time -
Sent split beaver fell ever pitch, led every pitch
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Its as good as everyone says -
So good! Was super psyched to onsight. Swung leads and I took the sword Pitch. We left the van around 7 was back around 1!
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One of my ultimate climbs. Will always remember this one. It was an amazing day with some amazing dudes!
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Incredible rock climb. Split Pillar and The Sword are just about as classic as it gets. Mega fun day on the wall with a great crew! -
simply amazing. If you lay back it you'll be sad.
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Insanely good. A treat to on-sight every pitch on a beautiful November day. -
Apron Strings > Mercy Me > Grand Wall > Upper Black Dyke. Made for an amazing day, bottom to top on the Chief. Essentially laybacks the entire way. At least thats what i did... -
Un fathomably good
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2019-05-11
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2019-05-03 -
2019-05-031hr of climbing 7hrs of waiting :) Stoked to climb this
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2018-10-10
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Tried this a year ago and was baffled by the Split Pillar. Gained some crack skills and it all felt easy. An incredible day with Kim! -
This is a proper climbing experience. If you could only climb one route in Squamish, this is a strong contender. Each pitch is packed with character! Climbing this was a very defining experience for me; the culmination of a a whole year of training abroad. Climbing this again over the next few years was always a joy, and I will likely climb it again at my first opportunity.
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Grade III - 6 Pitches + 5.10b Apron Strings (2 Pitches) + 5.8 Mercy Me (2 Pitches). Climbed with Anna Lynn & Cody Brown, 13 hours car to car. AMAZING - MUST DO!! Onsighted The Sword of Damocles (pitch 3), Perry's Layback (pitch 4), and the final 5.11a variation on pitch 6. Layedback the entire Split Pillar pitch while following :-P... The traverse on the Bellygood ledge to hike off was spooky in the dark!
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2017-07-14
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a mighty fun day out with marc! it did not disappoint, but exceeded my built up expectations. lead merci me, split pillar, and perry's layback. stellar. the big fat white rope (quality job with the splice and all) on the sword pitch was a treat - thank you! -
Probably the best multipitch I've ever been on.
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2017-05-01
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2016-11-14 -
2016-09-09 -
apron strings into mercy me into grand wall into roman chimneys into pub. Great day out.
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2016-06-26
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Led and sent all pitches. The 1st annual ''Bring a boulderer up The Grand Wall'' day was a success. Good job Corrine! -
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2015-08-25 -
Psyched, very nice position
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2015-08-18Birthday Challenge with Frankie! Lead both pitches of Merci Me, the Split Pillar, the Sword and the Flats. What an AMAZING climb!! -
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2015-07-11
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sent this thing on a crazy hot day in evolv defys. Woke up early with Dan to climb, got to the parking lot and realised I didn't havve my harness. we had the option of buying a new harness, but because we were both so sleepy we drove back to vancoouver to sleep. Came back to squamish at 5 pm, it was blazing hot and no one was on it. Finished by headlamp. An awesome day. First time on it was with Eric, where I fell once aat the sword. Best climb in squamish? -
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Split pillar was wicked!! -
Super amazing adventure! Just beat the sun on a glorious Squamish morning. It was busy but there were good leads and a great belay! Thanks Jesse James!! -
With Jeremy Rush in about 5:40. Would've been much faster if we weren't stuck behind a party of 3. Next time: in 3 hours or less, we hope.
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2013-08-10LOGBOOK, no send, slipped out of a jam 10 ft up Pillar, started from the bottom then finished it. Foot slip on Perry's before the jug feet... First time up the Grand, think I will tape up next time as my jamming technique isn't all that great.
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Euphoric climb! I led pitch 1, 3, 4 (split), 5 (sword), 7 (10a slab). Classic!
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2013-08-03Mostly TR, got dragged up the free variation. Holy crap, hard!!!! -
First long multi pitch defiantly fell a few times and only led one pitch, the exposure is amazing! -
I decided that my first multipitch should be a good one; the Grand did not fall short of achieving that goal. Had to turn around on the first try due to circumstances beyond our control. 3 days later, we went for a retribution attempt after work. Aside from me taking a fall on Perry's layback as a result of the sky turning to black for the crux; we sent all pitches clean and first go. Crossed Bellygood at 12:15am and enjoyed a warm-one on the ledge. I was afraid every moment during those 6.5hrs but could not have been more keen to tackle each pitch and get to the top!! Travis is the man - thanks for taking me up this magnificent Epic!! (Up the Grand Wall via Cruel Shoes).
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Amazing route, was easier than I had expected.
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Cruised it this time.
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have eyed that thing since i started climbing and am stoked to have finally climbed it. classic.
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2012-04-20
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This route lived up to all the hype. Amazing.
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Amazing
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lead the split pillar, perrys lay back and the sail flake. No falls tons of fun, will try roman chimneys next time
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Absolutely incredible, fell on Perry's layback.
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Amazing!! Followed Jeremy. Only my second long multi-pitch ever! So psyched! Good last day in Squamish. -
Amazing!so proud! Led the split pillar!! first big multipitch! thnx tony! 10 pitches (10b,10b,8,9,10b,11a,A0,11a,10b,10c)
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Held off on this one way too long, but was super exciting to try and onsight the split pillar and then just keep on sending. Was a big deal for me. Hardest part was (and still is) the reach crux on the 5.9 flats pitch!
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2001-05-22some good. thanks matt -
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Phenomenal, one of the best climbs of all time. Fell on Sail pitch and busted ankle :P
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Apron Strings to Bellygood Ledge
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Took me 4 times but last one I led all the pitches! -
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5.11aAnonymous User
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Started on apron strings and swapped leads till the top. Woo
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Swapping leads I did the sword.
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Speed style in the evening, done in three pitches. Ground via Apron Strings to the base of the Pillar, Pillar to top of Perry’s, last two pitches to Bellygood. 1:34 total time. This was also after climbing Millennium Falcon earlier in the day. One of my proudest days out.
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onsights15
flashes55
redpointsTotal Sends: 108
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