The Phoenix – V11

Description: edit

Start low in the middle of the Captain Hook cave matched on a left facing scooped edge. Work up and right through underclings, flat slaps, and pinches. Top out to the left of the Captain Hook start holds.

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Recent Sendage:

  • V11
    shindex doesnt fit the kneebar so had to use some beta I picked up from alex megos & hans montenegro. Lots of body tension.
  • V11
    One of the best in the glen.
  • V11
    Epic. Not that long ago I felt that was still years away... A big milestone for me - THE boulder at the glen. Each session I have made slow and steady progress - a lot of it revolving around the kneebar. Did it go easy today? ... No! 8th go! For me, V11 makes sense. But, I totally get, that if you fit into this thing well, it could feel soft.
  • V10
    One of the best climbs at the Glen
  • V11
    One of the best climbs in the glen. A very consistent problem with lots of body tension. I did the climb with a knee bar pad, I think thats how everyone is doing it now. Took me 4 short sessions. Couldn't do it yesterday morning, so I came back at sunset when the boulder was in the shade. It's crazy how condition dependant this boulder is. Karasu (Phoenix Sit) is next, just 1 move left to do!