Start low in the middle of the Captain Hook cave matched on a left facing scooped edge. Work up and right through underclings, flat slaps, and pinches. Top out to the left of the Captain Hook start holds.
Luka Stojkovic:New beta. No need for the bump in to the crappy pinch. Go straight for the kneebar, toehook to release it, bump left hand in to good hold then get the heel hook. Come in with a hot slap and bump to crimp. Jugs after that.
Epic. Not that long ago I felt that was still years away... A big milestone for me - THE boulder at the glen. Each session I have made slow and steady progress - a lot of it revolving around the kneebar. Did it go easy today? ... No! 8th go! For me, V11 makes sense. But, I totally get, that if you fit into this thing well, it could feel soft.
One of the best climbs in the glen. A very consistent problem with lots of body tension. I did the climb with a knee bar pad, I think thats how everyone is doing it now. Took me 4 short sessions. Couldn't do it yesterday morning, so I came back at sunset when the boulder was in the shade. It's crazy how condition dependant this boulder is. Karasu (Phoenix Sit) is next, just 1 move left to do!
My most challenging climb yet, both physically and mentally. Very psyched to have been able to send this beast! Disclaimer: I used a kneebar pad, I am ok with sending it this way. It does make it easier, this method goes at V11. Without, V12. Video coming soon.
I don't even know what to say... The Phoenix has been a project of mine since 2012 and I've put in at least 7 sessions on it. It never ever felt any easier and in the end I just had to practice over and over and beat it into submission. The holds are always wet and the pinches drain me. Personally this is the hardest climb I've ever done.