FA: philipstone - 2020-05-15

Description:

A fun adventure wandering up the full height of the Great Wall. Lots of enjoyable climbing on fantastic rock in great situations. First half sport, second half mostly trad-protection. Start at a small, mossy terrace ~15m right of the SILK ROAD buttress toe.
P1 25m 5.8 - Scramble up some easy ledges to gain a rib of black rock. Follow the rib (5.6) and slab as it butts into the steeper upper wall. Fun moves on excellent rock and generous holds up a steep face (5.8). Climb the right edge of the wall to the anchor. (7 bolts - rappel ring anchor).
P2 15m 5.6 - From the belay pop up onto the mossy ledge and walk left. Scramble up a short rock step (5.6) leftward to the belay anchor for Meandarin (1 bolt - rappel ring anchor). Consider running pitch 1 & 2 together.
P3 - 20m 5.9 - From the belay head left. Just to the right of the DYNASTY mid-anchor head up a short arête on a smooth, black wall to a wide ledge below a roof. Move into the corner and pull over the roof to gain a steep crack (5.9). Continue up the corner then easier climbing up blocky terrain, trending right to an anchor. (4 bolts + Trad .25 to 3 - rappel ring anchor)
P4 - 25m 5.8 - Climb direct from the belay up a narrow rib of beautiful rock (2 bolts - 5.7). Cross a mossy ledge and step right at the base of the upper wall. Climb the short wall (5.8) finding better protection (small wires/cams) to the right of an open-book corner/pea-pod feature. Finish at the anchor at teh top of this wall. (2 bolts +Trad .25-.5 - Rappel ring anchor)
Descend by heading up easy ledges to the South Peak Lookout and Trail and walk off left to the Lotus Land anchor access path (unmarked). Alternatively make 3 rappels, taking particular care to knot rope ends on the long 30m raps. With care the descent can be completed with 2 rappels trending to climber's right via the Springboard mid-station to the Jumping Frog Wall base ledge.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.9
    2020-05-15 (FA)
    This route weaves around from pitch to pitch so make sure you figure out the line. The first and third pitch are a lot of fun.