Chinese Mountains Area

131 Sport Climbs, 22 Trad Climbs, 9 Boulder Problems

Description:

Chinese Mountains are a group of rocky knolls on the southeast flank of Mt Seymour a 600m-high, forested hill that dominates the topography of central Quadra Island. Chinese Mountains overlook the southern peninsula of Quadra and has a network of well-maintained hiking trails that takes many hikers and climbers to some fantastic lookouts to the views of the Salish Sea, Rebecca Spit and the mountains of Strathcona Park and the mainland Coast Range.

There are over 260 established routes at Chinese Mountains and nearby Morte Lake. The rock is andesite, a type of volcanic basalt. Most of the routes are bolt-protected sport routes. There are some mixed trad and bolt protected routes and just a handful of purely trad climbs. Almost all the belay anchors are bolted and equipped with rappel rings, those that aren't are generally adjacent to readily accessible anchors that do have rings.

The climbs on Quadra Island have been developed with belays located at ledges. This makes the anchors for the single-pitch routes more accessible for setting up top ropes and fits well with the aesthetic of multi-pitch climbing and acquiring the skills for that. There are only a few routes with anchors 'over-the-edge, for lead and lower.

It is recommended to carry several long (120cm) slings and locking carabiners and have the skills to set up equalized anchors. Different styles are possible but the climbs are set up for a leader to belay following climbers from the top anchor and the team descending either by rappel or walking-off. Please do not run ropes through the rappel rings for repeated top roping. Build an anchor and the last climber down can either thread the rope through the rings for lowering or rappelling, or walk-off where suitable.

Directions / Travel Info:

To reach Quadra Island take the short 10 minute ferry from Campbell River to Quathiaski Cove. Once disembarked from the ferry follow the traffic up the hill and past the Q Cove shopping Plaza. Turn right at the 3-way Stop by the gas station and then quickly left onto West Road by the RCMP detachment. Continue on West Road for 5-6 minutes toward Heriot Bay. Turn left onto Hyacinthe Bay Road or left on Cramer Road which also joined Hyacinthe Bay Raod. Head north passing North Gowlland Harbour Road which turns off to the left. Also pass Walcan Road which is also on the left. Before the top of a steep hill watch for a small sign on the left for Chinese Mountains hiking trail. Turn left on the rough road and follow it a few hundred metres to the parking lot. A total of about 15 minutes from Quathiaski Cove.

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