katiekistler:Left hand on flat part of hold and right on undercling. Left foot on textured part of scoop, right on slippery chip slightly around corner (as compression kinda). Pull up and immediately slam in knee bar. Bump left hand to undercling. Match right foot next to left to move up left knee bar (foot goes on slight fang). Push on right foot to get right hand intermediate and then twist around kneebar more to slap speed bump, first in bad spot and then bump to good part at the left of the feature (first did this move by back flagging right foot, but ended up not really needing to do that). Do backwards toe hook (squamish shuffle style) with right foot to remove left knee bar and bring left heel by left hand to create heel toe cam (wear Scarpa Instincts)- heel goes right by small crack at bottom of feature). Get right toe hook on the right hand intermediate hold. Briefly match left hand onto speedbump and then go to lower down-pulling edge. Focus on left toe hook to move right foot to heel hook speed bump. Grab right hand side-pull mini scoop thing right above speed bump, then bump left hand 2 inches to better edge, then right hand up to flat edge. Grab choss
Figured out individual moves with Meredith and Amanda at the end of Jakes rampage day but didn't try to link anything. Wasn't sure if it'd go super quickly or be one of those climbs that is really hard to link. Turns out it was the former. Second go from the ground today. By any metrics (perceived effort, number of attempts, etc) this climb was not very hard for me, but it is the hardest number I've climbed in Wayco Tengs or the US, so ya... I dunno. Every move on the climb is either a kneebar, heel hook or toe hook, maybe that's why it felt so ridiculously soft. Personal grade v4?
Fun moves. Too bad it's 3 feet off the ground. Got two kneebars on it thanks to Nathan's kneepad. Crazy dust/rain/hail/snow storm!!! Close on Chablanke but it was soaked from all the rain so I had to leave with unfinished business. A week and in Hueco is not enough!