Show Beta
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katiekistler: Left hand on flat part of hold and right on undercling. Left foot on textured part of scoop, right on slippery chip slightly around corner (as compression kinda). Pull up and immediately slam in knee bar. Bump left hand to undercling. Match right foot next to left to move up left knee bar (foot goes on slight fang). Push on right foot to get right hand intermediate and then twist around kneebar more to slap speed bump, first in bad spot and then bump to good part at the left of the feature (first did this move by back flagging right foot, but ended up not really needing to do that). Do backwards toe hook (squamish shuffle style) with right foot to remove left knee bar and bring left heel by left hand to create heel toe cam (wear Scarpa Instincts)- heel goes right by small crack at bottom of feature). Get right toe hook on the right hand intermediate hold. Briefly match left hand onto speedbump and then go to lower down-pulling edge. Focus on left toe hook to move right foot to heel hook speed bump. Grab right hand side-pull mini scoop thing right above speed bump, then bump left hand 2 inches to better edge, then right hand up to flat edge. Grab choss
Recent Sendage:
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2024-11-25 -
Set that second knee bar as Hiiiigh as you can. Toe way out right was the way for the lip
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I used my knee pad more this trip than I normally do in a whole year in the PNW.
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Fun slaps with a couple tricky kneebars. Super fun! 3rd go -
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Hueco is sick.
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2023-03-06 -
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Would definitely give this more stars if the top weren't so chossy. Enjoyable knee bars and toe hooks and man the speed bump sloper is dope.
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I think i can kneebar?
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Learned to knee bar and found some cool beta. Started sitting on the pad. -
Cool moves but over quickly -
Did it with the real sit start instead of getting the kneebar in from the pads. I wonder how long the holds left on the face will last... -
Figured out individual moves with Meredith and Amanda at the end of Jakes rampage day but didn't try to link anything. Wasn't sure if it'd go super quickly or be one of those climbs that is really hard to link. Turns out it was the former. Second go from the ground today. By any metrics (perceived effort, number of attempts, etc) this climb was not very hard for me, but it is the hardest number I've climbed in Wayco Tengs or the US, so ya... I dunno. Every move on the climb is either a kneebar, heel hook or toe hook, maybe that's why it felt so ridiculously soft. Personal grade v4?
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Single session. Had actually given up for the day, but then a couple people arrived and convinced me to hang out to try a bit more. Used the more power, less trickery beta. -
Better than it looks. Second or third go.
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Sent in reality, but embarrassed myself off of the climb in my mind. -
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2019-11-11 -
Shitty day. In vans
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Nice slopey rail
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Fun lowball! -
2019-01-29Tricky kneebar action. Fun but the end holds will break off one day. Super flex.
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Coolest pinch ever! Chossy top. -
2019-01-14Wicked fun. Bumped my kneebar instead of the weird backwards heel hook beta and it worked. My left ass is sore from kneebaring. The topout flake will break very soon. -
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Fun knee bar -
Some weird beta, wouldn't have done it first try without the spray down.
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2016-11-20 -
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Juicy Juicy kneebar
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2016-01-22The lowest ball -
Super cool pinch!
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Cool hold!
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This thing is a struggle. Knee pad practically mandatory.
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unique -
2014-12-22
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you can do this the hard way or the extremely hard way.
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The speed bump hold is pretty amazing. Too bad the face is so loose and chossy and scary.
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V7Anonymous User2012-01-17
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2012-01-14
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2012-01-12Cool rail feature -
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Sweet kneebar!
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Fun moves. Too bad it's 3 feet off the ground. Got two kneebars on it thanks to Nathan's kneepad. Crazy dust/rain/hail/snow storm!!! Close on Chablanke but it was soaked from all the rain so I had to leave with unfinished business. A week and in Hueco is not enough! -
good stone
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Pretty nice. Getting your ass of the gound was weird at first.
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2009-12-14fun -
2009-02-16Knee bar with the jim thome jersey tee kneepad is key.
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sweet
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hard for me
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onsights4
flashes62
redpointsTotal Sends: 67
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