South Ridge of Gimli – 5.10a (trad)

Description:

The premier climb in the Valhalla range, the south ridge of Gimli is a visually stunning line and a serious undertaking. A total of 7 highly exposed pitches are followed by some low 5th scrambling to the summit. The first pitch, a 40 meter dihedral with a tricky roof at the top, is considered to be the crux pitch - originally graded at a colossal sandbag of 5.8, it is generally graded at 5.10a now. There is an option to bypass this pitch with a 5.6 start on a ledge on the west face (actually skipping the first two pitches on the main route), but doing so would bypass the best climbing. The second and third pitches are 5.7 on well featured rock, with decent protection. There is also a 5.10a move (reachy, easier if you are tall), considered the most difficult single move on the route, exiting left from under the roof at the top of the otherwise 5.8 graded 5th pitch. Overall the climb gets easier the higher you go as the angle gradually eases off. A well trodden 3rd/4th class descent trail leads directly from the summit and back to climber's camp. The approach hike is about 2 hours and many parties choose to climb car-to-car rather than camping at the base.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.10a
    2022-07-19
  • 5.10a
    2022-07-19
    Beautiful Spot, Fun Climb, Awesome Goats
  • 5.10a
    2021-08-21
    All time classic climb. Led odd pitches. Loved them all. Went off route at the top and ended up in sketchy slab land. Glad I had a radio to communicate down climbing.
  • 5.10a
    2021-08-17
    Incredible.
  • 5.10a
    2021-07-31