Shipshape – 5.12d

FA: simonalexanderwyvill - 2021-06-08


A good fun Boulder (v5+?) separated with rests from some ok 5.11 climbing. Definitely could/would feel way harder if you miss a pretty hard to find hold to begin the boulder. I thought the three ~12a route to the right were all probably worth a couple more stars than this one. The bottom 15’ isn’t really crack climbing, but more like a sharp semi-shattered fin along a choss groove. (Though not as bad as that makes it sound).

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.13a
  • 5.12c
    If the rock to the left of the crack/fin isn’t total choss after testing it wit a hammer, an added bolt 10-12’ up would be consistent with the style of the wall overall. Who wants to deck from the sandy/shattered holds 20’ up, or bring a few big cams just for this? The second super long chain draw also seems like it would be more useful elsewhere (even on bolt #1).
  • 5.13a
    2 tries. Strong boulder problem. Post-break send. No cams.
  • 5.13a
    2021-06-08 (FA)
    Great line by Casey Greene. The initial line he had in mind goes up the middle and right side of the prow. I tried it and determined it was too hard for me, but could be a fun alternate finish for someone stronger to put up. A couple of cams are required at the start due to good cracks but poor rock quality for bolting.