IMO if there are going to be short anchors on a 5.12 version here, they should be either one bolt higher (first draw over the roof, at an OK left knee) or else a couple bolts lower (at or just below the chain at a no-hands).

Great mid-grade mix of tufas and face holds. Nice to have something easier than the low 5.13s but with some pumpy and bigger moves. Also works well for hanging most draws on neglected .12d route just left.

A good overlooked route, but a pain to clean and requires some shenanigans to not end up fighting major rope drag. Left knee pad was worth it, tensiony slaps into sidepull-undercling tufas through the crux. I skipped/back-cleaned 3 bolts and had a long sling on another bolt and my rope drag was still terrible. Maybe tie into both ends, use one strand for the first ~7 bolts, up to the ledge, then untie it and switch strands for the remainder?

Props to Rene and Marcel on establishing what would be mega classic at any famous Euro tufa crag. The first half weaves up the wall and feels like bouldery ~.13c (V5,V6,V7 w/mono deadpoints!) to a good shake at the first matchable hold. Then you get all the consequential climbing on the steeper and more athletic .13b 'Crank Lite' which is tufa and pocket perfection and w/a hero cruxy finish. I shattered the big foothold knob for the low span move then crumbled off a smaller one on the 2nd boulder, and didn't traverse down into 'Dopamine Highway' to use the rest on that route near the top. As is, I'd vote .14a for the grade after working on Crank for ~12 days across two trips and climbing with a strong local who's been trying the route and had arrived at similar thoughts on the various sections. It was FAed/listed as .13d (which it may be) but has gotten harder since then and IMO staying on Crank without traversing into an upper kneebar rest should be worth something as well.

~v7 into 5.11- or so. Cool climb with a techy distinct boulder.

Good climb, though easier and not quite as good as Crank Lite, which has the same start and end.

Short climbers should get a personal upgrade on this one. I pulled the kneebar novice move of trapping my left hand into the rock with my left knee after the crux, and escaping it was probably the redpoint crux.

Great one! After the starting boulder I think It’s a smidge easier than the climb to the right. A more full value and fun ending traverses right at a horizontal break after the corner, and finishes at the higher anchor above both routes.

If the rock to the left of the crack/fin isn’t total choss after testing it wit a hammer, an added bolt 10-12’ up would be consistent with the style of the wall overall. Who wants to deck from the sandy/shattered holds 20’ up, or bring a few big cams just for this? The second super long chain draw also seems like it would be more useful elsewhere (even on bolt #1).

Memorable climbing and good movement from the moment you step off the ramp to the anchor jug. This pitch is clearly harder than original "Cosmos", but just how much harder is variable. You can downclimb a move to the rest after joining Cosmos, or skip it and enter the crux directly after a long stretch of pumpy climbing from the 3rd bolt. Even on Cosmos you can tackle the tufas directly or swing out left then back right. Any way you do it, it's a gem.

Calf pumper! Cruxy right feet getting into the tube.

An amazing and neglected classic in a great position, with intricate and hard to read climbing that comes together well. I suspect nobody had tried it this whole year (if not longer). Really deserves traffic!

Amazing route with A+ finish. The traverse rightward flows great. Harder than “Dopamine Highway” or “Ahead by a Century”.

Good climb, especially when you have thick skin. Going direct up the tufa snake pinches is awesome, and maybe a smidge tougher than the sneak-out-left option. For some reason 80% of all the kneebars I find at Horne Lake (any walls) are for the right knee. This climb was no exception.

More cruxy/bouldery than other nearby routes of a similar grade. Cool positions.

The thin flake mentioned by Alex in April '19 (around bolt 5) had indeed broken by August '19. That part now feels like a tense vertical stemming/gaston boulder problem. I'm not sure how much easier the original holds made it, but the redpoint crux or cruxes are surely higher where things steepen. Excellent climb!