Moonraker – 5.12b
20m / 66ft, 6 bolts
Description:
The first route in the amphitheater, trend right in the roof.
Show Beta
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nolanfield: To come out of the roof, I put my left foot on the glassy triangle, right hand on the handlebar, left on the higher crimp, then put a right toe hook in the hole where you previously had a knee bar. Lock off on the left crimp and you can go statically to the jug. -
jordanchow: After rounding the corner and escaping the steep, toehook to get to the mega jug. -
M-Bae: SHIRT UNDERWEAR! toehook in knee (fang) bar hole and side knee bar at top where the rock on the outside is broken
Recent Sendage:
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Used a knee pad and a crack glove. Really fun! -
2024-10-06Tried this once at the end of last weekend's trip. Really nice climb and even better beta from Michelle -
2024-06-30Surprise send today. Didn’t feel like I had good enough beta for the end, but my desire to not have to climb it again won out as I screamed my way to the anchors.
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2024-05-05Thought I wass gonna fall before the last crux but the knee bar saved me. Shook off just enough for the last section. I found it very endurancy.
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Cool moves, but not too hard after having done subdivision.
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Boom
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Tugging tufas because I'm too slow to tug salmons (っ˘̩╭╮˘̩)っ
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Toehook beta was clutch
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3rd go, first try of the day and no warm up. Needed to get up early to catch the cooler temps. What an absolute classic, all-time. Really don’t have anything bad to say about it
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Amazing features! 2nd go. -
So glad I never have to climb this again. So many tries over 3 years. -
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Super fun crux move! -
2020-09-23
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2020-09-205th go. I think this was my first 12b at the time -
Crux was incredibly desperate!
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2020-08-26
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Tried this 2 years ago with no kneepads and couldn't send, then tried it with kneepads this time around but at the end of my 2nd day on, it felt hard still lol. 2nd go of the day. -
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First go this year! Psyched! Didn’t climb it smooth at all but damn it’s fun. Got so pumped.
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2019-08-02Knowing beta helped a lot, sent at the third try on the same day
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Absolutely wonderful route.
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2019-07-15 -
Extremely fun and enjoyable. Last try of the trip send!
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Great boulder problem in the middle -
2019-06-23 -
3rd go. Now for Subdivisions. -
Finally found my sea legs. -
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2018-08-04Second shot. Blew my OS right at the top. -
Nice route! super sustained all the way through. That foot is so polished and shiny it gives me anxiety to stand on it.
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Super fun!! -
Such a cool route! Crux for me was the battle from the last bolt to the anchors!
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2018-06-02
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So awesome. 2nd go. -
2018-05-13
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2017-12-03
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Fantastic climbing on tufas (when dry). 2nd go.
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Sick climbing! 2nd go today after one try last year.
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Last go on the last day of the trip! Psyched!
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2017-08-112nd
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Great climb!
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2017-07-18
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Some nice moves to a fun crux at the top. -
What a wonderful climb! My first Horne Lake 5.12. Sent a lot quicker than I was expecting. The climbing after the last bolt is so rad, along with the entire route. 5 star climb in my books.
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Just great. -
2016-10-29 -
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flashed it thanks to eli's impeccable running beta :)
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Good route. Had to remember how to climb limestone. The top was my crux
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Gah squishy anchors.
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Good start to the trip! No knee bars used..
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Retro flash. Found the top scary 7 years ago so avoided it until tonight. Not scary anymore, go figure 😉☺️ -
Great climb but awkward at the anchors.
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Second go -
2nd go. awesome route -
This route is my nemesis. I'm embarrassed to even record how many attempts it took. I'm giving it a personal grade of 13a. -
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Big moves, mostly big holds ... good fun. -
Awesome climbing. Fun holds. Lots of pulling. -
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Dynamic hand jam!
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Great intro to Horne!
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5.12b ↑Anonymous User2012-10-14
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Classic -
How I learned how to kneebar! Weeeeoooooo!
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2012-07-09
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Got it 7th go. Stair building warm up was the key. Double 'scend day with Quarter Century Girl.Double rainbow - what does it mean? :)
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So many kneebars, so much fun. -
Wicked climb, use the knee bars
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2011-05-312nd go, cut my finger on my first attempt and couldn't finish. Nice route, really like the beginning.
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2011-05-23soft with knee bar pad.
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2011-05-20Long time coming.
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2010-09-19
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Really good
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A phenomenal route spoiled by grunge and grit above the first anchors. Needs a retro scrub and traffic. Caveat: bring a long draw. Also, don't lower off the end of your rope.
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Pumpy, but very good!
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2010-04-24Stellar line!
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amazing tufas and pods
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awesome route
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Was my first 12 in amphitheatre, and opened new doors. Still my favourite.
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Some outstanding movement! Clipping the anchors was my crux.
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Did this climb a year after I had my second kid! The crux was the top bit for me as I found a sneaky toe hook to make the first crux feel pretty manageable.
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Proudest onsight 2020 -
18
onsights6
flashes106
redpointsTotal Sends: 130
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