Description:

https://www.banffrock.ca/BVRupdates/pdfs/Goat/Mixmeister.pdf

F.F.A. Andy Genereux & Urs Kallen of entire route, July 2007.

Pitches 1 through 14 established by Andy Genereux & Jeff Marshall, June 2006
Pitches 15 through 22 established by Andy Genereux rope solo July 2007

This is a very good route that climbs a direct line from the lowest to the highest point on Goat Slabs. Overall the rock quality is very good to excellent and the climbing consistent at the 5.9 and 5.10 grades. That said this is an alpine rock climb in the Canadian Rockies and the route has not been manicured to sport standards. Expect to encounter some loose rock. There are also a couple of scree covered ledges to negotiate, thus wearing a helmet is advised. Although rated 5.10d do not take this route lightly there is a lot of climbing at the stated grades. The leader will have to be competent and be comfortable placing traditional protection at these grades. Several pitches require substantial clean gear placements while other are mostly bolt protected. The upper third of the route is quite steady at the 5.10 plus grade and this rig is big, I mean really BIG. Competent parties will require 8-12 hrs to climb the route and 1.5 hrs to get off descending down the Coire Dubh Gully. Plan on having to deal with a short rappel as the gully squeezes in above water worn slabs on this decent. Unless you know the way, down climbing this slick section is not recommended and is way harder than 5.4 stated grade stated on this route. The Loder Peak decent option is straight forward down the long undulating ridge, allow 2.5 hrs for this lengthy option. The third option described down the Goat Buttress Gully is not a recommended option. Allow 1.5 hrs for the approach.

Approach and decent details are available in Bow Valley Rock guidebook on pages
68 & 69 the climb starts just left of climb H on the photo on page 69 in that guide.

To locate the route start directly below the obvious right facing corner which meets the left edge of a huge yellow roof located roughly in the center of the cliff about 60m above the base. This feature is plainly visible from the meadows below this section of Goat Slabs. From the lowest point at the base of the cliff locate a shallow right facing corner with bolts visible starting about 5m above.