Show Beta
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Zach Y: Went straight left from the undercling to the gaston crimp just using the low left foot and smearing the right foot out right to keep the hips square. Then got my right foot in the good spot in the tiny incut scoop thing and a left toehook out left on the flat rail to move my right hand in to the crimp. Then just let go of the toehook and push with the right foot to get the left hand up to the good hold. Then right heel on the start and the top is all jugs. For the rock over, it's size dependent, but I got a left hand on the lip where the left thumb is good and then with a big reach up right there's a decent crimp in the seam, makes the rock over real easy. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CyrJ4boPeOy/ -
Scott Benish: There seems to be a lot of different ways to do this, but this is what worked for me (6'2", for what it's worth): Start with right hand on rounded crimp, left hand on undercling; right toe is pretty high and to the right on a rounded edge, and left toe does a lobster claw squeeze on the crumbly downward facing edge. Move left hand straight up to the small crimp (ignore the gaston out left). Bump the left foot up to the decent edge (backstep) and fire the left hand to the decent hold up and left. Move the right toe to the OK edges and sag down to get your weight directly under your left arm. Move the right hand up to match, and your feet will probably swing off. My friend found it easier to just drop both feet before moving the right hand and do the move as campus move. Basically, you're going to end up with both feet off when you match hands, so get in a position to minimize the swing. Once you settle on the match, get a foot on and go straight up to the decent edges, then work right to the jug. Up and right of the jug are some bad rounded edges that have been cleaned off. Try not to step on any slippery lichen on your way up the slab. -
Adolfo Gutierrez: The backdoor ass attack mantel is a perfect warm up for this mantel. It's harder but not as scary -
ryanolson: Go out left on gastons after the start, then head back right towards the top.
Recent Sendage:
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I loveeee -
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Went for the low Gaston beta instead of the big move. Really fun! -
2024-10-12Excellent. Saw some strong folks do a campus beta which was cool but they miss out on the full value sequence!
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2024-10-122nd try
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Me liiiike. Also why are this and dangle literally so hard?!
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Been wanting to give this a flash burn for a minute. Finally had the pads thanks to Kris and Dylan. Visualized and attacked.
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epic'd the top xD -
Thanks to the people climbing there -
2024-03-24
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Numb hands on the top out made it a bit spicy… -
Very cool, very fun, and somehow very sharp
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Was scared about the topout but it wasn't a big deal. Good spotters help make it less scary. -
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Bummed i missed the flash. 2nd go. Standard moonboard simulator
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love this climb. top out is scary but worth it.
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Did a campus match. One of my favorites in Leavenworth.
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Neat -
Beautiful and bold. So psyched! Learned down the lower moves and bucked up for the top out. Though the top is intimidating, and should be taken seriously, I don’t think it’s harder than V3, at least for a small flexible person like me. This thing eats pads, I think we had 10 and there still could have been more. -
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This is a moonboard V5 with a spicy mantle -
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Good climb. First V8 onsight.
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So good. Campused the right hand into the crimp
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Psyched to have finally finished this one. Battled between two different betas for a while. Botched the topout the first time getting there from the start. Then rested a while and sent next go. Such a great line.
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sweet boulder I should have flashed -
Honestly a perfect line -
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2018-07-02So good! Top out didn't seem tough...
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2nd go. Mega topout. Think about how much you like your skull the way it is before you do this boulder
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I loved this climb! The holds are so nice on the hands, and the top out was no gimmie.
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2017-10-01psyched to have done this in a session.
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Foot slipped on the first move .. then sent next try.. I little more focus and I could have flashed!
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Finally! Worked this for multiple seasons years ago. Felt good to return to the nemesis and send it with ease!
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2016-06-11Worked this thing for 2-3 hours with a crew of 5-7 people. Finally sent it at the end of the session, barely. I was exhausted when I hit the good holds under the lip and barely kept it together for the top out.
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I had gotten to the top three times this trip bit hadn't been able to commit to the top out. I checked out the mantel betas online and comitted! Scary landing especially without a spot.
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3rd go. Great power trainer. -
a near perfect problem... with a not perfect landing... only makes it more of a thrill. maybe not hard but just thorough for the grade...
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2012-05-19rough start moves. gets better as it goes
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3rd go -
2012-04-30took two days, totally worth it! fell off the mantle in the rain, an hour later found a spotter and another pad and sent! sweet!!!!
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Arg, footchips were too high. Had to campus the right hand over instead of just reaching with a foot. Still fun though!
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Nice slightly overhung face with crimps and scary mantle with a bad landing. Bailed from the top the first time I got up there. Fun moves and nice granite holds. -
Topout was harder and scarier than I expected!
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Tough first few moves to an exciting finish.
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2010-05-19Psyched!
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2009-06-16 -
Perfect holds and very fun movement great rock. -
AMAZING CLIMB. not enough hype about this one.
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Great crimpers
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onsights14
flashes50
redpointsTotal Sends: 65
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