Kaizen – 5.12d


27m / 89ft, 10 bolts
FA: Ysbrand N - 2019-09-07

Description:

Start on large side-pulling pockets, through a technical 5.11 section to a ledge. A sustained boulder problem awaits above. The original line climbs in from the right after the ledge, not on Last Dance.

Located in between Last Dance and Nyctophobia.

10 Bolts to a Clip-n-Go Anchor

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12d
    2026-07-09
    Interesting boulder problem. For the record, the pockets below the crux were literally running with water, so I took a "scared old man so I'll pre-clip" off the ledge rather than risk hitting it if my fingers blew out of the super wet munge cling. Might go back and do it again, fun.
  • 5.12d
    2026-06-19
    Of the three "sit down on the ledge then do a hard boulder" routes at lower, this is truely one of them
  • 5.12d
    2025-07-12
    Fun 11- climbing lower down and 12- at the top but the route really comes down to one or two moves above the lie-down ledge. The crux felt desperate at first but almost easy on the send. French variation.
  • 5.12d
    2024-09-24
    3rd go
  • 5.12d
    2024-08-24
    2nd go