Samuel Martin:Real pig wranglers jump for the jugs. Heelhooks are the devil's beta, sent from hell to injure climber's hamstrings and proliferate cowardly fear of dynos on lead. Just fucking jump for it.
Wow, what a rig! Not a bad move on it. And historic: the second 5.14 done in Canada. Put up in 1997 by French crusher Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu (he also established Globe and Pushers on that same trip). And no doubt it was solid at 14a back then. But that was before the perfecting of kneebar technology and these dark days of the downgrade. Doesn't feel much harder than Motivation to me, since pretty good trickery can be found through nearly all of the hard sections. Still feels amazing to be able to get up this king line of the left side, even in my weak, modern style.
Endro fest between awesome and unique rests. I was cooking at the top but managed to keep it together... just. Closer to 8a+ than 8b+ In my books. It's a great route none the less and I enjoyed climbing it. It’s just good that it's a piece of cake these days. Get on it
Turns out I actually like wrangling pigs. You just have to do it enough so that you get good at it, then it becomes a pleasant past time. Or maybe I still hate Warthog and am just telling myself I learned to like it because I brought home the bacon and sent Dinosaur Highway, meaning that my time wrangling pigs on Warthog was indeed for the greater good? Only time and diligent self-reflection (both of which will undoubtedly drive those around me to insanity) can reveal. Anyways, I'm super stoked to tick this king line!
Who knew removing my legs from knee bars could be so beta intensive... Straight-up awesome climbing separated by knee bar rests that I found pretty weird and awkward. Surprised myself with a send as my previous highpoint was 2 bolts after the Warthog finish.
My first 14! Pretty psyched as I just barely squeezed it in before it's wet for a few months. This route had a lot of different movement packed into it. 2 months ago a lot of it felt dynamic, but by the send almost none of it. I really like that the other 13's at Horne really prepare you for it and then it's just a little step up.
Sent first try today! All I needed was a bit of extra fitness and a trooper belayer. Spent about 20 minutes on the route - probably resting more than climbing. Got it on the GoPRO, so I'll link video soon.
18 year climbing dream realized:) This is the hardest and best route I've ever climbed. Thank you rene, dan, and lizzy for the beta, encouragement and inspiration. And andrew, maria, mike, paul, chris, kyle and sean today. I truly enjoyed every part of this journey: the sticky, ferry runs, g&t's, and vino. Take that EE!