Show Beta

• 
  blake:   Left hand in top of "groove" thing, right hand from 3finger sidepull crimp to gaston the tooth with a barnacle, move feet then bump right hand to the sand dollar sloper, deadpoint left to the mono, move feet, deadpoint left to the big undercling way up there. ( never use the crimp sidepull most rightward or the sidepull above the mono). Maybe I'm weaker than I want to think or missing good beta, but this sequence passing the last 3 bolts of the start half felt like a long V7. And I could imagine the moves before that being equally as hard or harder for anyone under 5'8" or so.

Recent Sendage:

• _{5.14a ^↓}
  
  blake

  _2024-07-01
  Props to Rene and Marcel on establishing what would be mega classic at any famous Euro tufa crag. The first half weaves up the wall and feels like bouldery ~.13c on its own (V4/5,V6,V7 w/mono deadpoints!) to a good shake at the first matchable hold. Then you get all the consequential climbing on the steeper and more athletic .13b 'Crank Lite' which is tufa & pocket perfection and w/a cruxy finish. I shattered the big foothold knob for the low span move then crumbled a smaller one on the 2nd boulder, and didn't traverse down into 'Dopamine Highway' to use the rest on that route as the other free ascent did. I'd vote .14a for the grade after working on Crank for ~12 days across two trips and climbing with a strong local who's been trying the route and had independently arrived at similar grade thoughts. It was FAed/listed as .13d for years before Marcel retro-downgraded every Horne Lake route (?) but went unrepeated & has gotten harder. IMO staying on Crank without traversing into a nearby kneebar rest adds to the pump factor as well.
• _5.13c
  
  Marcel Aarden

  _{2020-11-03 (FA)}
  Mono? Umm, yes please... King line at the boss wall. So rad, definitely a classic. Techy with small holds down low to some great pumpy jug tugging to the anchors.