Busted – V8
Description:
Sit start on the incut flake hold. Climb straight up through small right hand sidepull/crimp before heading left into big slot. Very accessible for the given grade.
Show Beta
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Zach Y: https://www.instagram.com/p/CiyI6MfgNEm/ -
colebarber: Crank the heel on the first move.
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taylorwehr1: Pretty straight forward with 1 crux move.
Recent Sendage:
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It was all about what my left leg was doing for the first move. Fun! -
2024-10-12 -
2024-10-09 -
Fucking banger
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2024-07-29
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Sick first move
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2024-05-21 -
2024-05-21 -
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Questionable -
2024-04-062nd go
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I think consensus is coming in at 7 for this one -
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First move makes this a v8 for my 5’-3” frame. The top is not a gimme either! Punted there on a previous hot day. Glad I can move on. -
2023-10-22
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Punted the top more times than im proud to admit
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pumpy
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Maybe even softer? Doesn't matter though -- Amazing climb! -
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Awesome. Probably 7 -
2nd go. Nice movement, felt soft for the grade.
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After one long year of waiting, I finally got revenge
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First move took quite some time to get dialed. Went pretty quickly once I figured out the beginning.
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First time in leavy. Just missed flash -
That start hold ain’t long for this world.
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2023-04-11 -
can't believe i was able to span the move to the rail! pulling hard on heels are definitely my anti-style. so stoked to get this!
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Flashed the bottom, still thought the middle was the crux -
2022-09-27
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The only thing busted is the grade. But amazing climb
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Incredible climb, first move is so fun and the big move is great. Comparable or easier than other 6s in the area like The Hole or Cruise Control. Definitely easier than any 7s in the area like The Shield or Dangle. No idea where you would get V8 from.
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2022-06-24
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2022-06-24
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Retro logged, finished maybe 3 years ago
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so so good. Climbed it in some light rain. -
fun! -
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Really sick climb. Got it second go after almost clinging the sloper rail
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First try. Not a flash because I tried once before in sub-suboptimal conditions -
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2nd go
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Wonderful climb, definitely an ego booster! Sent it second go.
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Great climb, but maybe even V6? Second go. -
First try after doing the stand start version. Sweet climb! The extra move doesn't add too much difficulty IMO -
3 Attempts
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Pretty sick! Psyched
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2022-04-15 -
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2022-03-12
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Birthday gift to myself -
Score! This one's loomed over me for awhile, for whatever reason (baking sun, too much hype) I never put in the work until recently. Sent the stand and the sit after about 30 minutes of effort this morning. I now understand its' popularity.
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I hate the start crimps.
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Woohoo! First move is fun! -
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2020-10-09
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2020-06-20first v8! that first move took a couple trips to figure out.
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First Leavenworth 8. Fun movement, take care not to move too far left.
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uncomfortable. fragile rock
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so hot -
Really really rad. -
Soft for the grade. Amazing problem -
Crisp May morning! Soft for an 8. V7 beta skips the undercling and veers left -
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Sweet block definitely felt low in the grade but eight none the less -
I thought I couldn't reach the big move!
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tried 3 years ago, flashed this year -
2019-04-20Felt easy on send day; have since unsent...
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2019-04-19Such fun movement, especially the big throw (big for shorties)
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Nice Problem, shouldn't have punted the first move. Second go. -
Sent in about 40 minutes. Cool move to a good undercling into some easy moves that set up for a big left reach. A choice of heel hooks supports this move. Second V8! Perfect end to a great weekend at leavenworth.
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2nd go -
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Tall and high quality climb. Punted at the topout on day 1, then cleaned it up the morning after.
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2018-09-06
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Soft as hell but fun movement.
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Really good one overall -
Fun, but not V8
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harder when you have taped all 10 tips -
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Sick movement
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First 8 flash? Felt not so bad
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got it in a couple tries! pretty cool line!
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Fun!
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2018-04-02
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retro flash! nice holds and fun moves
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I achieved my goal for this trip, which was notching this! Finally could do the start move, don't know why it seemed so impossible before. Sticking the crux left hand feels so powerful and amazing. Topout takes a little strategy as well. One of my favorite climbs yet.
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2017-10-01
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2017-04-18
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Make sure you rest and collect yourself before the finishing moves. Very fun climb. -
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I don't think I did the normal beta
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Last time I tried this was 2 years ago and it felt really hard. Cruised it first try today. It's nice to do something where I can see how much I have progressed lately. Very soft for V8.
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Super fun movement. Very easy for V8 .. squamish v6?
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2016-10-01
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chill. had reach issues higher up until someone gave me good beta. -
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After repeating so many times over the years, 7 I think is reasonable for this.
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2016-04-16
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2016-03-25Burly first move! Amazing fun. Loved this climb. :)
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Second go -
Great first day in Leavenworth! -
Surprised myself!!! Fourth try. First time sticking the first move I went to the top! Fun!!
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2014-10-16Took the psyche of having my daughter born and took this old nemesis down in 3 tries. Amped!
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First outdoor V8! Kind of easy... -
2014-05-10
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Fun!
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Not the most aesthetic but climbs very well. Should have flashed it. -
few tries. first 8. soft
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8:00 a.m. V8 (gotta beat the sun) -
from the crimps. super fun line.
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2012-05-19second try
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Fun times! Loved the first moves big heel + cross over into the deep tasty finger slot.
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Fun climb. crimps, jugg, sidepulls, and slopers -
3rd go, 10 minutes. Ultra classic. -
V8Anonymous User2011-07-01
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First try of the day but I'm pretty sure I tried this a few years ago.
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a bit contrived
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Soft for V9 even after the break. Pretty fun though.
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Nice moves -
Update: Just found out the hold for the first move was broken... could be a 9 now.
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Nice problem
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2005-10-01 -
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Great intro to V8's
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Amazing climb! Not feeling v8 though. Nevertheless... amazing! -
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felt soft for 8 -
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0
onsights17
flashes151
redpointsTotal Sends: 168
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