A Bold New Plan – 5.11a
25m / 82ft, 8 bolts
Description:
The must-do route at White Imperialist. This route starts off with a short traverse to a good rest. Pumpy climbing on big holds and awesome jugs leads to the anchor. Stick clip the first bolt, and back clean it to reduce rope drag.
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ashleygales: Stick clip is not a bad idea
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Jimmy Blackhall: Shake your arms
Recent Sendage:
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Nice to clip the chains after punting a few times over the years. One star off for the weird start. -
Sick climb good jugs but the start is weird be safe.
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Super fun moves between jugs
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Couldn’t send it last season, first go in this season.
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2024-05-26
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A nemesis no longer -
Polished feet on the slab almost cost me the flash. So many holds it's hard to find the right ones to shake out.
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2023-10-03
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Weird start, but one of the best 11's in the valley. -
2023-09-16Never been so close to puking on a climb
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Grabbed all the wrong greasy holds to make things more interesting. Best 11 at Grassi. Get on it! -
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2023-05-26 -
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jug haul pump fest. I pretty much rested my way up this thing. It was not pretty.
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A must do -
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Yup..... I got pumped -
2021-07-29 -
So much fun!! -
First 11a flash! Amazing route. Was quite gusty and fun exposure. -
Fun route! Very pumpy for the grade wow! Just keep moving and holding on somehow. Was in the zone if I’m not sure how I’m still holding on for a while! Tough for grade
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2021-06-11Very Fun -
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Pumpy! Quite fun -
very fun climb -
2020-09-14 -
Steep pumpy exposed jug haul! Who could ask for more? -
3rd try. Great route -
Had to fight the pump for the onsight!
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Pumpy but good holds all the way
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2020-06-20
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Did all 3 starts to this one. Better than meathooks??? -
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2020-05-06Retro-flash, nice!
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2019-10-24 -
Pumped out at the start traverse. Polished but awesome climbing
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I HATE THE SLAB AT THE START. Fun otherwise! -
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2019-07-24Cool position!
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Best 11a at Grassi. Halfway rest gets you through to the chainz -
2019-06-13 -
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2018-08-16 -
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Greasy warm up in the sun -
2018-05-16Tristan and Patrick
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Super pumpy, a classic for a reason. -
Buckets everywhere. Scary without a stick clip!
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2017-06-14
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2017-06-14 -
My first 11a redpoint back in the day. Did it again, still a pumpfest! Still excellent.
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2016-09-05I finished the 12a direct variation before doing the alternate non direct start... The direct is better than the weird back cleaning mess that is the original start. Far less polished as well... -
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Stoked to get my first 11a onsight. Amazing pumpy line. -
Awesome route! So pumpy!
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Great climb. Great fun
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Fight the pump to the top
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Pretty classic for sure.
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One of my favourite 11A's ! Too much fun yewwww
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2016-05-10 -
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Amnesia on-sight. Brilliant line. The Grassi classic. -
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2016-04-09 -
Biggest holds ever. But I could barely feel my hands! Brrrr too cold. Finished up the day not long after :( -
i would have probably enjoyed the climbing more if I could have felt any of the jugs. Too cold :( -
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Pretty good except for the awkward and polished start -
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2015-07-09 -
Great sustained climbing on slightly overhanging rock. HUGE holds. Stick clip the first bolt if you are not comfortable on the grade. -
2015-06-05
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1st go last season and slipped. 2nd go this season and got it. a bit pumpy. the start just gets in the way
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2015-05-05Better than meathooks! -
Not sure why I have not tried this before. Amazingly fun 5.11a.
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Jugs jugs jugs
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Sketchy start, more fun up top. -
First 11 onsight! -
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2014-06-24 -
Super classic
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2014-05-25
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Fun stuff!
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Stoked! Barely got it - clipped the chains and fell
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2013-07-13
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2013-06-01Why not, it was dry.
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2012-09-08 -
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Really fun movement! Defininetly recommend
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Onsighted this route in 98 and again here. yup it does work that way.
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2011-08-01
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2010-08-15Fun. May have been on as a kid. -
Pumpfest. Lucky it stayed dry in light rain.
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best 6c at Grassi
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2009-08-10
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2009-08-02
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retro flash -
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2009-06-27
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first 11a lead in canada. many years ago now.
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2006-08-19 -
5.11aAnonymous User2004-08-02
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2002-08-21 -
tried it 3 yrs ago..
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I love it !!!!
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My favourite climb in Grassi!
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Bold without a stick clip!
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Belayed Pat on it first. Great climb. -
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5.11aAnonymous User
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First climbed a few years ago. Still pretty pumpy.
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2nd go unfortunately -
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60
onsights17
flashes74
redpointsTotal Sends: 151
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