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Black Magic

Vancouver Island > Black Crag

1 send

5.8Sport

Generally good climbing with a perplexing crux. Start at the right end of the base ledge where the access gully to the Leaning Tree anchors heads off to the right. Climb steep rock for a few moves then step left onto a lower angle face. Continue up to a narrow ledge. Make a tricky series of moves (5.8+) relying on the superb friction for feet up an incipient crack. Easier climbing up to the shared anchor.

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