Better Half – 5.11b


27m / 89ft, 11 bolts
FA: Nathan Brown - 2020-07-11

Description:

Completion of an abandoned project immediately right of the Second Cave (route 13 in the 2011 edition of Galloway's Bow Valley Sport). My awesome wife came out on her birthday weekend to help clean and complete this route. I don't know who installed the bolts on the upper headwall. Climb the initial tower to a rightward exit at the last bolt. When you've clipped the first headwall bolt out left, unclip the traverse bolt for better rope feed. Then begin the route's "better half" - alpine climb up interesting rock to a cryptic roof crux. Grade is discretionary. Probably as easy as 11a for some but I suspect short people will find the crux quite a bit harder.
Note the line and location of this climb are wrong in the 3rd edition of Bow Valley Sport. It starts on the ground to the right of the cave and goes straight up.

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.11b
    2025-03-02
  • 5.11b
    2020-07-11 (FA)
    Completion of an abandoned project immediately right of the First Cave (route 13 in the 2011 edition of Galloway's Bow Valley Sport). My awesome wife came out on her birthday weekend to help clean and complete this route. I don't know who installed the bolts on the upper headwall. Climb the initial tower to a rightward exit at the last bolt. When you've clipped the first headwall bolt out left, unclip the traverse bolt for better rope feed. Then begin the route's "better half" - alpine climb up interesting rock to a cryptic roof crux. Grade is discretionary. Probably as easy as 11a for some but I suspect short people will find the crux quite a bit harder.