FA: Mason Tessier, marcus norman - 2022-07-18

Description:

In memory of Gery Unterasinger aka The Wolverine! Your vision and dedication was an inspiration to us all!

We spent three days questing ground up bolting on lead and by aiding with hooks to establish this line. We later stripped the first pitch and bolted a more inspiring line on rappel that climbed in from the right.

Approach: located approx 50m left of Living in Paradise under the large orange section of the wall. A small 4th class approach leads to the base of the route. Rope up to make it more comfortable.

Pitch 1: (12c, 16bolts) climb up great rock to an optional belay (for the full experience climb as one pitch) before establishing and traversing left on the bullet orange rock. Superb!
Pitch 2: (11c, 9bolts) Although easier than the other pitches don’t underestimate it. Trending leftward up the bolt line navigate hard to read rock before traversing right at the top to the large belay ledge. *Be mindful to avoid knocking any loose rock on your belayer*
Pitch 3: (12b, 8bolts) take your time between well spaced bolts before pulling around the lip to a spectacular headwall. Featuring great exposure and unusual stone!

Descent: Rappel the last pitch back to the ledge. We recommend back clipping to get back into the wall below the roof. From here two 35m rappels will get you to the ground (don’t get stuck dangling in free air) or one 70m rappel with a tag line.

FA Marcus Norman & Mason Tessier

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.12c
    2022-07-18 (FA)
    Such a fun experience putting this up with my good friend Marcus Norman! A great adventure in a beautiful place dedicated to our friend and inspiration Gery Unterasinger.
  • 5.12c
    2022-07-18 (FA)
    Full-on adventure bolting with Magic Mas. Glad to put this one down quickly. Second and third pitches are a tad scrappy and sharp - like the claws of a Wolverine. Established in a way Gery would have approved I hope.