Trail Fairies – 5.11c


FA: Zach Watson - 2024-07-13

Description:

5.9 pitch 1 ( 4bolts)
Short Pitch on right-side of gully can be avoided by scrambling on the left.

5.7 Pitch 2 ( 10 bolts)
Continue up left of first anchor.

5.9 Pitch 3 (10 bolts)
Straight up from Pitch 2

5.5 Pitch 4 ( 8 bolts)
Climb left of anchor around a corner then follow corner up to large tree ledge.

Walking Pitch 5
Walk left to opposite end of large tree ledge

5.10b Pitch 6 (6 bolts)
Climb up on relatively easy ground to an exciting slab traverse to reach a blocky ledge traverse

5.11c Pitch 7 (11 bolts )
Climb through small roof pulling onto slab with difficulty then continue up and right on great exposed slab climbing

5.11a Pitch 8 (12 bolts)
Climb up and right on great rock climb to a small awkward ledge from here you can climb left of bolt line potentially easier but looser rock or right of the bolts after a larger reach on solid rock step right to anchor

5.11b Pitch 9 (14 bolts)
Climb beautiful rock up and right from the anchor to a bulge grab jugs on the right side of the bulge and mantle onto slab above the crux Continue on good rock straight up to ledge and anchor

5.10c Pitch 10 ( 8 bolts )
Climb up from the anchor to reach a slabby ledge traverse left till you reach a corner above follow corner for a few moves then traverse back right on an airy slabby traverse to a small stance and the anchor. Extend all draws on this Pitch to avoid too much rope drag

5.11c Pitch 11 ( 11 bolts)
Climb directly above the anchor though a steep roof on to more great slab climbing that heads up and left to a ledge

5.10b Pitch 12 (12 bolts)
Step left from the anchor and climb great rock straight up till you reach a loose roof where you continue up and left past the roof to the final slab.

DESCENT

rapping requires a 70m rope

Rap 1
rap straight down from the last anchor to a separate rap only station

Rap 2
Rap down and to climbers right to the top of Pitch 10

Rap 3
short rap straight down to the top of Pitch 9

Rap 4
Straight down to the top of Pitch 8

Rap 5
Down and to climbers left to top of Pitch 7

Rap 6
Straight down to the large tree ledge

Reverse the walk of pitch 5

Rap 7
Follow the corner down and to climbers right to midway anchor of Pitch 4

Rap 8
Continue raping down the corner to climbers right and step right to the top of Pitch 3

Rap 9
Straight down to the top of Pitch 2

Rap 10
Straight down to the top of Pitch 1

Rap 11
Either Rap the short first pitch or scramble down to climbers left

Walking off is also an option

From the anchor do a couple of slab moves to reach the scree and some trees. Scramble up out of the gully on climbers left then traverse the gully back right above the waterfall/step follow the faint trail traversing a shale scree slope, once you have traversed the scree slope follow an at first faint trail that is flagged till you reach the trans canada trail which you can follow wast back to your car.

Recent Sendage:

  • 5.11c
    2024-07-13 (FA)
    Great climbing once you get through the first few pitches