This Way To Get Your Head Cut Off – V5 ↑
Description:
Start on the obvious large crimp, trend right though a few crimps/small side pulls and then fire straight up.
FA: PM/TD 1997
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Tim Etchells: I really had to focus on getting behind and full crimping the right hand gaston. This allowed me to drive into the left foot (start hold) hard enough that I could shuffle up my right foot, then reach to the top. -
joshzhang: Using high heel hook makes it easier to top
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Aidan: Left foot to the starting hold, right hand to the gaston, left hand to the tiny crimp then stab right foot to the left facing edge. Then top!
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nickbruce: High right foot to move to the gaston. Then a nice little throw to one of the many jugs for the top out. -
devincard: Its all about the feet. Great practice for the Desperado project.
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Mitch Herberholz: fancy foot work is the key for me
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Greg Bauch: This wall has lot of options. For me, I found a closer crimp to hit with the right hand after the match in the triangle pocket. Also, I use a undercling/side pull out left as my last hold before a slappy left palm to the rail. Taller climbers might find the bottom harder than the top. The opposite is probably true for shorter climbers. -
Mikhail E Yerkovich: secret crimp out left from the gaston
Recent Sendage:
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Finally did my local nemesis. Now that I've done the move I understand the grade; it felt so hard before I unlocked it.
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Sharp on the fingers, but maybe my favourite V5 in Vic so far? 2nd go
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very frustrating to project but so satisfying to send
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Felt really stout until I figured out what to do and then it wasn't so bad...painful but a great route overall! -
2023-04-15
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fun! -
Great and fun route, a bit stiff for a V5
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Pretty nice climb. Basic but lovely movement. -
Awesome climb, hard on the fingertips especially right index for the way i climbed it. skin wasnt there first session but got it second session in the rain. -
Nice flow. Sharp -
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Dmitriy vs. ice saga goes on. Neat grips! -
2021-10-31
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Bring some fingers ready to crimp -
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Excellent. (Did in November)
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2020-10-05
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I don't really get the hype honestly
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2020-05-26
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Been working on this on and off since 2015, and it was my longest project! Felt good to finally send it 😊 -
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2019-07-07
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Wish I had a bit more flexibility for the last move, ended up with a dyno to the top. -
2019-06-09
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Probably the hardest v5 I've ever done. Such a high value climb. -
sharp
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2019-03-09 -
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They were not kidding about this being sharp. What a great problem! -
Great climb up really nice rock. A proud V5
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Jug haul. -
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2017-06-08
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Good rock and interesting movement. -
2017-05-13First outdoor V5, took one session! -
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2017-05-06So sharp! Fun climb, clouds went away just long enough for a send :)
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Great crimpy/balancy problem. First good send of the season, hope for many more!
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2017-04-20Super fun technical climb....SHARP rock! -
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Good movement, super shouldery -
A fun send, on a great day, with a rad crew, on my first day here!! -
2017-01-15 -
Hope you're thick-skinned. Gnarly crimp shredder of a problem.
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Everyone had matching thumb gashes from the feet popping on the gaston! Super fun! Way stoked!
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Messed up the flash because I thought I didn't need feet but it turns out I do. Went second try!
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First time bouldering in a very long time. Still managed to get a quick send of this! Just missed the low start, fell off the last move twice before going home. -
Feels good to get it before the boys on a send train -
Fun problem! Stoked to have checked this off. Good friction today. Group send!!
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Group send! Fun problem
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Fun crimps
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2014-07-24hot in the summer sun!
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2014-03-01Many frusterating days working on this, and it still is a low percentage climb for me.
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Second session. Great problem. Sharp holds and lock-offs were the name of the game for me.
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Really good friction in these conditions, pretty cool problem!
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Sweet Stealth Session, Was psyched James got the tick on this, sent in 4 or 5 tries. Totally my style.
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Sharp
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first v5 and looking back pretty hard too
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Best 5 in greater Victoria for sure
3
onsights5
flashes78
redpointsTotal Sends: 86
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