This Way To Get Your Head Cut Off – V5 ↑
Description:
Start on the obvious large crimp, trend right though a few crimps/small side pulls and then fire straight up.
FA: PM/TD 1997
Show Beta
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aidanlazar: The Microbeta for me: Start outside edge of right foot low on the good seam, left foot on the big flat diagonal foot. Right hand up to the jug, go right foot to the good spike and place the left foot in a seam below start hold to piano-match left hand to the jug (taking weight off with the left foot is key to a smooth match). Go right hand to the thin crimp and readjust the left hand on the jug, then swap feet, placing right foot on the obvious nub. Bump left foot to just below the starting hold - on a small nub (hard to explain). Gentle power into the right-hand gaston, left foot onto the start-holds and TOE IN (pull with toe) to reach the left crimp. Stab right foot to the left facing edge then throw right hand to the top. After matching the top keep the arms relaxed, find higher feet and press into the mantle in one go. https://www.instagram.com/p/DGFO-2PxkuJvEbBGNsONE5xtPy__SqbzWG7u9s0/ -
Tim Etchells: I really had to focus on getting behind and full crimping the right hand gaston. This allowed me to drive into the left foot (start hold) hard enough that I could shuffle up my right foot, then reach to the top. -
joshzhang: Using high heel hook makes it easier to top
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Zach Y: Writing a paragraph so I never have to re-learn this. Start right foot low on the good seam, left foot on the big flat diagonal foot. Right hand up to the jug with only two fingers, go right foot to the good spike and drop the left foot to left hand match the jug. Go the right hand to the thin crimp and readjust the left hand on the jug. Then left foot up to the nub just below the start crimp. Right foot up to the good higher foot, then right hand up to the good gaston. Left foot goes up on the start crimps, then rock over left on it to go left hand to the crimp under the lip. Then left foot on the little nub just above the start crimps to get the right foot to the high right diagonal foot, and then just right hand to the lip. -
Aidan: Left foot to the starting hold, right hand to the gaston, left hand to the tiny crimp then stab right foot to the left facing edge. Then top!
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nickbruce: High right foot to move to the gaston. Then a nice little throw to one of the many jugs for the top out. -
devincard: Its all about the feet. Great practice for the Desperado project.
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Mitch Herberholz: fancy foot work is the key for me
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Greg Bauch: This wall has lot of options. For me, I found a closer crimp to hit with the right hand after the match in the triangle pocket. Also, I use a undercling/side pull out left as my last hold before a slappy left palm to the rail. Taller climbers might find the bottom harder than the top. The opposite is probably true for shorter climbers. -
Mikhail E Yerkovich: secret crimp out left from the gaston
Recent Sendage:
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Finally! Felt way easier this year -
What a sick line, the microbeta is real - psyched to put this one down!
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Fantastic boulder! Loved the movement
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So relieved to finally tick off this island legend
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Very fun sharp crimpy line!
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So stoked to finally get this one. Once I dialed my beta in the moves felt much easier -
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Finally did my local nemesis. Now that I've done the move I understand the grade; it felt so hard before I unlocked it.
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Sharp on the fingers, but maybe my favourite V5 in Vic so far?
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very frustrating to project but so satisfying to send
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Felt really stout until I figured out what to do and then it wasn't so bad...painful but a great route overall! -
2023-04-15
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fun! -
Great and fun route, a bit stiff for a V5
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Pretty nice climb. Basic but lovely movement. -
Awesome climb, hard on the fingertips especially right index for the way i climbed it. skin wasnt there first session but got it second session in the rain. -
Nice flow. Sharp -
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Dmitriy vs. ice saga goes on. Neat grips! -
2021-10-31
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Bring some fingers ready to crimp -
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Excellent. (Did in November)
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2020-10-05
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I don't really get the hype honestly
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2020-05-26
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Been working on this on and off since 2015, and it was my longest project! Felt good to finally send it 😊 -
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2019-07-07
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Wish I had a bit more flexibility for the last move, ended up with a dyno to the top. -
2019-06-09
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Probably the hardest v5 I've ever done. Such a high value climb.
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sharp
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2019-03-09 -
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They were not kidding about this being sharp. What a great problem! -
Great climb up really nice rock. A proud V5
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Jug haul. -
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2017-06-08
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Good rock and interesting movement. -
2017-05-13First outdoor V5, took one session! -
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2017-05-06So sharp! Fun climb, clouds went away just long enough for a send :)
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Great crimpy/balancy problem. First good send of the season, hope for many more!
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2017-04-20Super fun technical climb....SHARP rock! -
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Good movement, super shouldery -
Hope you're thick-skinned. Gnarly crimp shredder of a problem.
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A fun send, on a great day, with a rad crew, on my first day here!! -
2017-01-15 -
Everyone had matching thumb gashes from the feet popping on the gaston! Super fun! Way stoked!
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Messed up the flash because I thought I didn't need feet but it turns out I do. Went second try!
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First time bouldering in a very long time. Still managed to get a quick send of this! Just missed the low start, fell off the last move twice before going home. -
Feels good to get it before the boys on a send train -
Group send! Fun problem
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Fun problem! Stoked to have checked this off. Good friction today. Group send!!
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Fun crimps
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2014-07-24hot in the summer sun!
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2014-03-01Many frusterating days working on this, and it still is a low percentage climb for me.
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Second session. Great problem. Sharp holds and lock-offs were the name of the game for me.
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Really good friction in these conditions, pretty cool problem!
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Sweet Stealth Session, Was psyched James got the tick on this, sent in 4 or 5 tries. Totally my style.
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Best 5 in greater Victoria for sure
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first v5 and looking back pretty hard too
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Sharp
3
onsights5
flashes86
redpointsTotal Sends: 94
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