Aaron Guiles:If you're having trouble getting your butt off the ground - try to get a low heel hook with your right foot at the very bottom of the right arete, then pull hard. Here's the footy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81vZ1A7XdYo&hd=1
Sent in the sun with Sava after hiking out to (and falling off of) Tailpipe and then Power Slave. The hiking exhaustion (I was carrying 2 pads the whole time, which was a terrible decision) must have been the key, as it felt far easier than it did a few weeks ago. Not a 9 for me. Most importantly, we saw a pretty big Gila Monster just up the hill from the boulder.
FA. Short and powerful climbing. Got a couple repeats and seems to be in the 9 range and possible the hard 8 range if you are taller. V9 for me for sure. You just have to commit to grabbing a very small, sharp hold.