Show Beta
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Zach Y: Seems like everyone calling this hard is doing either the right heel or right toehook. I started right foot low, left foot smeared up near the little roof and it was real casual. Right hand up to the crimp, then went left foot on the horizontal seam thing and right foot up to the start hold. Big bump up to the good right hand then you're done. https://www.instagram.com/p/CnV1352Jst4/ -
Jessica Lin: Right heel to start, switch to left heel to get higher crimps
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Zhao Lang: Big lunge off of a bad crimp -
Aaron Guiles: If you're having trouble getting your butt off the ground - try to get a low heel hook with your right foot at the very bottom of the right arete, then pull hard. Here's the footy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81vZ1A7XdYo&hd=1
Recent Sendage:
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Tricky first move with weird toe catch and going into a bitey crimp
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2024-12-28 -
That crimp sucks
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was about to give up on this and then Will Bosi and Teresa rocked up as it was Teresa's proj... so i HAD to stick around. thanks for the heel hook beta - was able to squeak out a send! sooo amped as it was totally unexpected! had to crimp extra hard in front of those two.. great meeting these mega crushers.
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2nd -
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2 tries
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urghhhh 2nd go. should've toe hooked -
Could see this being v7 with one or two more inches of reach to make the deadpoint easier.
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Really nice one. Some tough crimping -
2023-03-26
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Very tricky start with techy right heel, very savage bump to the good gaston. Two very tough moves on a fantastic looking boulder.
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Very fun. maybe my perfect style but felt like a breeze
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Really fun. Took a handful of tries at the end of a long day. Felt pretty on par with other 6s in the area. Felt about a full grade easier than any 7s I've done here.
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Visited this climb at the end of the trip, skin condition was terrible and the sharp crimp felt very painful. Tried multiple betas and settled for my anti-style "contact strength" move. Felt soft when I did it.
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2022-12-20
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Bastardly second try. Heel slipped for the first move first try, dang. Sharp crimp. I pre-taped three finger tips on right hand. Definitely worth it. Big swinging cross was fun -
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Starting the trip with a hurt back and ring finger this seemed like a lofty goal. After some work it started to click, toe hook and a bump got me to the finger bucket. Sick!
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I had a pretty bad red rocks trip. Thank god for takoyaki
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Fit me well. I did this while absolutely wrecked, but I liked this way more than the dynamic campus board style problems I've been getting shut down on at easier grades! -
Seems really morpho
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Had to try a bunch different micro beta variations. Super cool going from that gnarly crimp to the big bump.
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1st go dry fired. 2nd go fell off after the crux because I suck. Sent 3rd go. Not V9, that's for sure, and maybe not V8 either... -
4th day on, last go of the trip!! -
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Cat claw power, for gurt -
2019-12-25Played to my strength.
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Nice holds, funky movement.
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matching the razor-sharp crimp in the middle of the face is probably one of the most disgusting moves I've ever done climbing
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okay
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2019-02-25 -
2nd try. Fun little problem. Tech steep crimping. My style, so went down quick.
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2019-01-27Night send.
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I personally find this closer to a 7/8. Great intro for someone looking to break into the v8 grade range, especially for shorties. Close approach, can be done with 1/2 pads and no spotter, good options for all sizes. For me, 7 is appropriate.
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If this is V9, then the moonboard is as sandbagged as they say. -
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Oddly satisfying for how short it is
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Movement throwback to Coles corner in LW
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Nice bonus send at the end of a fun day out with Yulia and Andy.
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Definitely easy end v9, but big deadpoint move was max effort and reach. About 8 goes just trying to stick the big move lol...
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Sent in the sun with Sava after hiking out to (and falling off of) Tailpipe and then Power Slave. The hiking exhaustion (I was carrying 2 pads the whole time, which was a terrible decision) must have been the key, as it felt far easier than it did a few weeks ago. Not a 9 for me. Most importantly, we saw a pretty big Gila Monster just up the hill from the boulder. -
Easier than Poison control and Shark tooth.
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2014-12-29The rock bit back! Happy to be able to lock-off again.
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2nd try. Really nice. Repeated for video. You have to want it on this one. -
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8/9 ish, sharp little bugger. thanks for the smile myranda, needed it today!
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2012-02-25Gave 30+ go's on this problem in one afternoon and finally sent it. Short hard crimpy problem.
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2012-02-17Crimpy crimpy!
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Off the beaten track.. Crimpy and straight forward, worth the short walk.
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4th try, cool crimp line
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Short problem with two hard moves. My first outdoor V9. Soon to be a classic.
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V9Anonymous User2010-11-01
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FA. Short and powerful climbing. Got a couple repeats and seems to be in the 9 range and possible the hard 8 range if you are taller. V9 for me for sure. You just have to commit to grabbing a very small, sharp hold.
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sharp but fun
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onsights5
flashes66
redpointsTotal Sends: 71
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