Sparkling Papaya – 5.10a
Description:
Mt. Lougheed II - "Sparkling Papaya" - West
Buttress and Ridge
(Steve Birch & Andrew Brash, July 2023)
This 8 pitch route takes the obvious buttress on Lougheed II, that rises out of the connecting ridge from Little Lougheed. The rock is compact, yet often loose and exfoliating, and offers almost no natural protection. The route is fully bolt protected, although it would be a stretch to call it a sport climb. A few small cams could be useful on occasion to supplement protection. The route has a fair amount of choss, ledges full of scree, and bustable holds. There are some satisfying pitches however, with good positions and excellent views, all leading to a 3100m summit close to home.
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Recent Sendage:
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2023-07-30Amazing position and setting to have this freshly bolted sport alpine climb on the West buttress of Lougheed. Once it cleans up it’ll be even better - thanks Steve and Andrew for putting it together! Very well bolted and easy to follow, doesn’t need any gear to supplement. Approached via Little Lougheed and the connecting ridge. 9 hours car to car moving at a moderate pace