Something Wicked This Way Comes – V12

Description:

Start as for Black Magic but finish as for Quevo De Lobo

Recent Sendage:

  • V11
    2023-08-06
    After doing Something Wicked Extension last fall this took me an additional four sessions. A couple sessions to work out the middle crux beta then a session or two to get the fitness. One of the main king lines in Gibbs Cave. I find the second move heel hook very low percentage and awkward but the rest of the moves are incredibly fun. I knew it was over once I got to the beginning of Quevo De Lobo and just enjoyed my time to the top from there. Im taking v11 because I didnt go right into Black Hole like the book suggests. Instead, from the jug I went straight up. A nicer line imo since it is completely straight the whole way through. Loved this experience!
  • V12
    2017-06-05
    Intricate granite roof climbing at its best. The opening sequence is so hard for me. Took a lot of work to refine my beta enough to send. Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSCoAr45Zf0&t=3s
  • V12
    2011-05-28
    Soft, but scary with only one pad and one spotter with some wet holds in the middle. About half an hour.
  • V11
    2008-09-27
    So Sick, but 32 moves is too many.
  • V12
    2008-07-28
    long, pumpy and highball! power enduro! nice movements and cool climb!