Description:

Approach: Park at the Ratsnest Cave parking lot. Follow the trail for Ratsnest Cave for approximately 5 minutes to a fork on the left bank of the creek, take the left turn which leads to a cutline. If you missed the fork you will get to the same cutline. Follow a trail west down the cutline for about 200 m to where the approach trail turns right up into the forest. After 20 minutes the trail leaves the forest and follows a road almost all the way to the drainage from Middle Grotto (aka The Scantuary). Once in the drainage follow it past the dry-tooling area called The Playground until inside the grotto. Keep an eye on the right for a trail cut into the scree below a tree triangle below the orange wall. This trail will lead you to the base of the route. Approach time is approx. 1 hour.

Gear: The total draws needed for the climb is 13 plus anchor kits. Most stations have two off-set rap rings with an extra bolt to make room at the belay.

1. 15 m, 5.10- (6 bolts). Climb up a seam to a ledge.
2. 22 m, 5.12b (8 bolts). Move up the face past a crux to a small stance.
3. 22 m, 5.11b (8 bolts). Climb up and through a small roof and fun climbing above to a ledge
4. 22 m, 5.12a (10 bolts). Follow bolts through a roof to a belay on top of the slab.
5. 25 m, 5.11a (8 bolts). Move up a vertical wall past a rap station onto a large (lunch) ledge to a belay.
6. 30 m, 5.12a (13 bolts). Face climbing up to the bottom of an arête, follow it until easier ground forces you left, then climb straight up to a station in an alcove.
7. 22 m, 5.12a (8 bolts). Move right and up to a crux below some nice features which will bring you to a hanging belay at a jug.
8. 20 m, 5.11d (6 bolts). Climb through easy roofs to a crux in an open book corner that is below some more easy steep climbing to a ledge and a belay station.
9. 20 m, 5.12a (6 bolts). Steep and powerful climbing right off the ledge leads to some easy ground and a belay.

Descent:
To walk off: Climb to the right past a bolt to a ledge with a two-bolt station. Once on the ledge, walk east for about one km following a rough trail below a wall to a trail heading down to the parking lot.

To rappel: You will need a 70 m rope or two ropes. You may need to back clip some of the b