Show Beta
-
lloydlee: Right heel to go up to the famous pinch and bump left to the first intermediate and jump!
Recent Sendage:
-
2024-09-03 -
Climbs really well, cool intro sequence off the heel although a bit cramped to start. Opted for the big dunk finish this time -
2 sessions + whatever it took to do the traverse. Wrecked my RH knuckles dry firing off this both days, but managed to top it out regardless of blood loss. -
-
2024-01-15
-
-
Super fun climb actually! Rad compression boulder that I did with the huge jump at the top, which for me was easier and more fun! Barely easier than sesame
-
Spent so much time figuring out different methods for the top, until I realized you can dyno past it all. I like the opening moves for this more than the 9 version.
-
I really liked this version . Maybe more than the left entrance. Very nice back flags and opted for the dyno finish for the end. Contrary to when I did Sesame st. Very fun but greasy as hell -
-
Maybe a touch easier than sesame Street but not a full grade easier. Seems more spanny. Only 3 stars since the full line climbs better. -
Just keep ticking and tacking -
Hot and felt hard -
-
Engaging all the way to the jug!
-
-
-
-
Fun
-
2022-08-29
-
Really good movement. Felt basically impossible until I found beta and understood how to actually use the holds. More technical than I thought it would be! -
1st go after doing the V9 var. Flashed the opening moves, which actually felt similar difficulty to the other var. imo. Still sweet but I do prefer the other var. -
-
-
2021-02-09More enjoyable than the 9. Got it done right after -
Woo pretty fun. Didn’t feel that much easier than the V9 -
-
felt hard
-
wish i used that intermediate sooner -
Surprisingly went in three goes. The only bad thing about this problem is its landing. Great climb and would do it everyday!!
-
-
slam dunk finish -
2019-08-26 -
Happy to have sent this after a big climbing sesh the day before. -
-
-
Gnar -
2018-10-13
-
I'm gonna call this a flash because only one hold overlapped with the original for me -
-
Once again... Did ridiculous beta... The catch to the crimp was severe. But either way, really fun climb!
-
Sesame Street was more fun
-
-
I'll concede soft 9, but this is a 9 in my books. Many a day were spent on this climb.
-
-
-
V8 in the new guide (V9 in the old) -
This took me quite a few sessions to get and felt harder than other v8s I've done. Really crazy left heel hook to reach for better top holds. -
I would honestly say it sounds the same difficulty as the proper. Guide book grade -
2017-06-03 -
-
Yes! 3 sessions over 2 years with varying beta each session. Finally just decided to jump to the sloper. Felt like v9 in the August heat. Squamish....
-
-
Dyno! -
-
This was harder for me than the original start, but still turned out to be pretty fun.
-
-
2015-05-03
-
Felt really hard until I fine-tuned my beta. Very fun problem! Three left hand moves in a row for the finish.
-
Sustained difficulty for a few moves. I used the undercling... felt more secure and less intimating than the lunge I see people doing. Hopefully I can put down the full (non-direct) problem some time... -
2014-07-10
-
Powerfull!
-
2013-09-13Kinda bunchy, but at least it ends in a dyno.
-
Seems more obvious to me than the traverse start. Really enjoyed this one. Probably soft, as I did it 3rd day on after jogging up the chief.. makes for a memorable send though. -
A flow into a pop. Trixy!
-
2012-10-11forget the heel hook and go straight up! fun and easier! woot!
-
2012-10-03
-
2012-09-19
-
I liked the original better.
-
Almost flashed! 2nd go. More fun than the original. Might be a bit easier if you're short like me. -
2012-07-10
-
I managed to do one move this day that I had never done before so I knew it was on. It was so cold but yet the SS crimper-pinch still felt slightly greasy. -
More fun than the original (I think ) ...
-
So many ways to do it, but finally found my beta! -
I like it more than the original. Maybe feels a little easier?
-
Pretty decent variation, still the same fun.
-
Felt Easier than the original.
-
Pretty cool, but not much different than the regular
-
-
-
One session. Much easier than Sesami Street for me
-
There is a hard way and an easy way but not putting heel above head is definitely a good idea -
Holds were wet
-
-
2009-04-05
-
make it a bit different
-
good
-
2005-07-19 -
I liked this one better
-
Downgrade in the new book? I disagree. This took me like 4 days of work. Regular start took me 3 tries. dafuq?
-
2014
-
-
Loved it
-
V9Anonymous User
-
0
onsights3
flashes92
redpointsTotal Sends: 95
This ad supports the development of Sendage.
