Show Beta
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lloydlee: Right heel to go up to the famous pinch and bump left to the first intermediate and jump!
Recent Sendage:
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2024-09-03 -
Climbs really well, cool intro sequence off the heel although a bit cramped to start. Opted for the big dunk finish this time -
Wrecked my RH knuckles working on this both days, but managed to top it out regardless of blood loss. -
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2024-01-15
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Super fun climb actually! Rad compression boulder that I did with the huge jump at the top, which for me was easier and more fun! Barely easier than sesame
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Spent so much time figuring out different methods for the top, until I realized you can dyno past it all. I like the opening moves for this more than the 9 version.
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I really liked this version . Maybe more than the left entrance. Very nice back flags and opted for the dyno finish for the end. Contrary to when I did Sesame st. Very fun but greasy as hell -
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Maybe a touch easier than sesame Street but not a full grade easier. Seems more spanny. Only 3 stars since the full line climbs better. -
Just keep ticking and tacking -
Hot and felt hard -
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Engaging all the way to the jug!
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Fun
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2022-08-29
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Really good movement. Felt basically impossible until I found beta and understood how to actually use the holds. More technical than I thought it would be! -
1st go after doing the V9 var. Flashed the opening moves, which actually felt similar difficulty to the other var. imo. Still sweet but I do prefer the other var. -
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2021-02-09More enjoyable than the 9. Got it done right after -
Woo pretty fun. Didn’t feel that much easier than the V9 -
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felt hard
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wish i used that intermediate sooner -
Surprisingly went in three goes. The only bad thing about this problem is its landing. Great climb and would do it everyday!!
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slam dunk finish -
2019-08-26 -
Happy to have sent this after a big climbing sesh the day before. -
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Gnar -
2018-10-13
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I'm gonna call this a flash because only one hold overlapped with the original for me -
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Once again... Did ridiculous beta... The catch to the crimp was severe. But either way, really fun climb!
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Sesame Street was more fun
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I'll concede soft 9, but this is a 9 in my books. Many a day were spent on this climb.
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V8 in the new guide (V9 in the old) -
This took me quite a few sessions to get and felt harder than other v8s I've done. Really crazy left heel hook to reach for better top holds. -
I would honestly say it sounds the same difficulty as the proper. Guide book grade -
2017-06-03 -
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Yes! 3 sessions over 2 years with varying beta each session. Finally just decided to jump to the sloper. Felt like v9 in the August heat. Squamish....
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Dyno! -
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This was harder for me than the original start, but still turned out to be pretty fun.
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2015-05-03
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Felt really hard until I fine-tuned my beta. Very fun problem! Three left hand moves in a row for the finish.
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Sustained difficulty for a few moves. I used the undercling... felt more secure and less intimating than the lunge I see people doing. Hopefully I can put down the full (non-direct) problem some time... -
2014-07-10
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Powerfull!
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2013-09-13Kinda bunchy, but at least it ends in a dyno.
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Seems more obvious to me than the traverse start. Really enjoyed this one. Probably soft, as I did it 3rd day on after jogging up the chief.. makes for a memorable send though. -
A flow into a pop. Trixy!
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2012-10-11forget the heel hook and go straight up! fun and easier! woot!
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2012-10-03
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2012-09-19
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I liked the original better.
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Almost flashed! 2nd go. More fun than the original. Might be a bit easier if you're short like me. -
2012-07-10
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I managed to do one move this day that I had never done before so I knew it was on. It was so cold but yet the SS crimper-pinch still felt slightly greasy. -
More fun than the original (I think ) ...
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So many ways to do it, but finally found my beta! -
I like it more than the original. Maybe feels a little easier?
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Pretty decent variation, still the same fun.
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Felt Easier than the original.
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Pretty cool, but not much different than the regular
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One session. Much easier than Sesami Street for me
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There is a hard way and an easy way but not putting heel above head is definitely a good idea -
Holds were wet
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2009-04-05
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make it a bit different
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good
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2005-07-19 -
I liked this one better
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Downgrade in the new book? I disagree. This took me like 4 days of work. Regular start took me 3 tries. dafuq?
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2014
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Loved it
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V9Anonymous User
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0
onsights3
flashes92
redpointsTotal Sends: 95
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