Return of the Osprey

7. Return of the Osprey **** 5.11c Mixed 12 p Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Dean Flick and Cam Molder, October 2010. First Ascent: Dean Flick and Ruedi Beglinger, June 28, 2011. Gear: BD Camalots 0.5 to 1, 18 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes. Start: Return of the Osprey has the lowest start of all routes on the Victor Lake Wall. As you walk up the approach trail, shortly below the Victor Lake Wall take the trail turnoff to the right (sign). Start at the base of a steep step and the prominent slabs above, single ringbolt. Route: Pitch 1): Climb straight up a short buttress to a large ledge above (bolts). From there climb diagonally up to the right, up a second short buttress, to the base of large slabs. Now climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10d) to the belay, 45 m. Pitch 2): Climb for 8 meters straight up and after traverse to the right (bolts, 5.11b). Eventually climb straight up to the belay below a steep lip, 45 m. Pitch 3): Climb this lip and the above slabs (bolts, 5.10a) to the next belay, 30 m. Pitch 4): Climb straight up a short buttress to a ledge. There traverse a few meters to the right and climb a short corner leading to a wall directly above the below ledge. Now climb straight up (bolts, 5.10a) to the next belay at a ledge, 42 m. Pitch 5): Climb a short corner to the above slabs. There keep climbing straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to a large ledge above. Now traverse to the right, to the belay, 38 m. Pitch 6): Climb diagonally up to the right up a short slab (bolts, 5.2) to a ledge with a small overhang. Climb this overhang at the far right-hand side (bolts, 5.5). After move diagonally up to the left and climb a final short step to the above Goat Ledge. Move diagonally up to the left, to the belay, 45 m. (This is where you can bail from the climb, if so walk westward along the Goat Ledge, fix ropes, and rappel the Baldwin start of the Ninth Symphony). Pitch 7): Move a few meters diagonally up to the left and after climb straight up a steep face (bolts, 5.10b). At the upper end of this face, traverse to the left onto a ledge with a large tree. Keep traversing below this large tree and after climb a steep face diagonally up to the left (bolt), to the belay, 40 m. Pitch 8): Climb for a few steps diagonally up to the left and after climb straight up (bolts, 5.11c) to below the large roof above. Now aim to the right, following the large roof and corner system above (bolts, 5.11b), to the next belay, 42 m. Pitch 9): From the belay climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10c), eventually climb straight up (bolts, 5.11a) to the next belay, 38 m. Pitch 10): Climb straight up to the above ledge (bolts, 5.11a). There walk straight up to the base of the upper wall, large flake with the belay, 30 m. Pitch 11): Climb this prominent flake and after keep moving for a few meters diagonally up to the right. From there climb slightly diagonally up to the left to a roof (bolts, 5.10a). Pull this roof (5.10b) and exit onto a ledge with the belay, 40 m. Pitch 12): Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10a) to the final belay, 25 m.