Description:

6 Restless Spirits **** 5.11c 2 bolts A0 or 5.12a Mixed 12 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger, Cam Molder and Manuela Arnold, June 2011
First Ascent: Dean Flick and Ruedi Beglinger, June 22, 2011.
Gear: BD Camalots 0.4 to 4, 18 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Same as for the Mission. Start at a deep corner, directly left of a large roof (chain-anchor).
Route:
Pitch 1): (Mission) Climb at the climber left past the base-roof, up the deep corner (5.5) to the first bolt. Keep climbing straight up a series of slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the ledge above. From there traverse a few meters left to the first belay, 30 m.

Pitch 2): (Mission) Climb a few steps straight up and after traverse to the right (bolts, 5.8) into a left facing corner. Now climb straight up this corner (bolts, 5.6) to the above ledge with the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 3): (Mission) Climb straight up a broken buttress (bolts, 5.4) and after aim diagonally up to the right, to a large Fir tree with the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 4): (Mission) Walk diagonally up to the right for 25 meters and after aim straight up a slab and a corner (bolts, 5.4). From the upper end of this corner, climb diagonally up to the right, to the belay, 35 m.

Pitch 5): Scramble on easy ground diagonally up to the right, to the far upper corner of the Victor Ledge. From below a prominent large tree climb diagonally up to the right onto a large ledge directly to the right of the large tree, 35 m.

Pitch 6): From the large ledge climb below a roof diagonally up to the right, to corner. Climb up this corner and after traverse tricky to the right (bolts 5.10a). After this short traverse climb straight up to the slabs above (bolts, 5.10a) and further to the belay at a small ledge, 35 m.

Pitch 7): Climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.11c) to an exposed ledge. Traverse along this ledge to its far right-hand end. From there climb straight up (bolts, 5.11a) to a roof above and further to the next belay, 35 m.

Pitch 8): Climb along a prominent long corner (bolts, 5.10a) to where it leads into an overhanging hand and fist crack. Climb this crack (5.10b) and after move straight up, past a final steep crux (bolts, 5.10b) to the belay, 35 m.


Pitch 9): Climb the large roof (bolts, 2 bolts A0 or 5.12a) and the following overhang (bolts, 5.11b), leading to a steep wall above. Now climb straight up this steep wall (bolts, 5.11a) to the belay, 30 m.

Pitch 10): Climb straight up easy slabs (bolts, 5.4) to the large ledge above, belay, 20 m.

Pitch 11): Climb along a prominent flake to its upper end (5.9). There climb straight up (bolts, 5.10c) and eventually traverse to the right (bolts, 5.11a) to a right facing corner. Follow this corner to its upper end and to a roof. Pull this roof (bolts, 5.11a) and after climb straight up to the belay at a narrow ledge, 37 m.

Pitch 12): Climb straight up to below a prominent overhang (bolts, 5.10a). From there traverse below this overhang to the far right (east). Now climb straight up to the final belay (bolts, 5.9), 30 m.