PanAmerica – 5.10c (trad)

Description:

9. Pan-America ***** This grand 365 v. m. route belongs to the longest routes in the Revelstoke area. 10c Mixed 15 p
Established: Ruedi Beglinger and Cam Molder; October 2, 2011.
FFA: Ruedi Beglinger and Brian Dafoe, October 8, 2011.
Gear: Cams 0.4 to 4 (double up on 0.75 to 2), 17 draws, 3 shoulder slings, 70 meter single rope or 60 meter double ropes.
Start: Pan America starts 30 meters to the right (east) of Return of the Osprey, at the lowest part of the Victor Lake Wall. As you walk up the approach trail, shortly below the Victor Lake Wall take the trail turnoff to the right (sign). Follow the fix rope past the start of Return of the Osprey, for another 30 meters to the start of Pan-America and Trans Canada, single bolt.
Route:
Pitch 1): Climb a shallow buttress (bolts, 5.10b) and after climb diagonally up to the right, across slabs and short walls (bolts, 5.10a) to the belay, 55 m.

Pitch 2): Climb straight up for several bolts (bolts, 5.10b), after traverse to the right across large slabs for 35 meters, to the belay, 60 m. (If you need to bail, you can rappel straight down from this anchor, 25m / 30m).

Pitch 3): Climb straight up slabs (bolts, 5.10b) to a large ledge. From there climb a corner (bolt and gear) to the next belay, 37 m.

Pitch 4): Climb diagonally up to the right, to the prominent arête. After, climb this great arête to the above slabs (bolts, 5.8). Keep climbing straight up the slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay at a ledge, 38 m.


Pitch 5): Climb straight up a buttress (bolts, 5.10c) to the above ledge. There traverse a few meters to the right, to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 6): Climb straight up (bolts, 5.9) to the Goat Ledge above. Continue on straight up to the next belay, 32 m. (This is where you can bail from the climb, if so walk westward along the Goat Ledge fix ropes, and rappel the Baldwin start of the Ninth Symphony).

Pitch 7): Climb straight up (bolts, 5.10b) to the next belay, 30 m.

Pitch 8): Climb straight up a steep right facing corner system (bolts, 5.10c) to the next belay at a small ledge and corner, 36 m.

Pitch 9): Climb diagonally up to the right into the second corner, from this corner move diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9) to a prominent ledge. There climb straight up large slabs (bolts, 5.9) to the belay, 38 m.

Pitch 10): (Do not follow the bolts leading diagonally up to the right, Pan-American). Instead, follow the bolts leading straight up (5.10b) to the large roofs above. As soon as you reach the base of these large roofs climb diagonally up to the left in between roofs (bolts, 5.7) to the next belay, 45 m.

Pitch 11): From the belay traverse exposed below a small roof to the right, to a small right facing corner (bolts, 5.10c). After this airy traverse climb diagonally up to the right (bolts, 5.10a) to a sloping ledge above. From this sloping ledge climb diagonally up to the left (bolts, 5.9), to the top of Trans Canada, 50 m. Belay on a Fir tree.

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