Outer Space – 5.9 (trad)

Description:

Starts at the base of Snow Creek Wall and follows fantastic features up through the main shield to the top. This can be crowded, but it's a good place to chill and look at the view. Pretty easy to identify this route on the wall, because of the long, well-cleaned crack splitting the upper headwall. Follow that crack down to a ledge with a big cedar growing out of it. The regular start is the ledge/dihedral system about 80 feet right and 100 feet down from the end of that ledge.

p1/2: An easy corner/scramble to a ledge. From the ledge, traverse down and left to the huge ledge with the big tree; you'll probably have to do a little easy simulclimbing to do this as one pitch.(5.7). There's also several fun variations starting further left that are a bit harder, but would allow you to pass a really slow party on the first pitch.

p3: From the ledge, either head up a steep crack with juggy flakes (some are a bit hollow) or start from the left up a dihedral. Either way, you end up at a roof. Step out to the right (this is airy and fun, with great pro) and follow the crack out right until it heads up again. Be careful of drag. Belay on a nice sloping ledge. (5.9)

p4. Head up and left on an easy slab peppered with knobs toward a left-facing dihedral. Get into the dihedral (crux of this pitch), top out, and traverse left to another ledge. Watch out for rope drag on this, too. Longer than it looks. (5.8).

p5. The money pitch. Go up the obvious crack that splits the shield. One of the most enjoyable pitches in the world, I think. You will giggle the whole way up. It's 130 feet long (?). You can jam in any of the bomber, perfect jams along the way, or if you get tired of that, step onto the stair-like knobs peppering the face. Sublime. And it ends on a perfect ledge with a separate crack to set an anchor. (5.7)

p6. Keep following the crack. A little "bouldery" crack move gets you off the ledge, then it's cruiser jamming to the top. Getting all the way to the top in one pitch from here will stretch a 60m rope. You may have to stop on the slab to bring up your second before you actually hit the top and trees. Don't sweat it, though. There's room for gear everywhere. (5.9)

From here, there is a rap route, or scramble down the gullies on the left (as you're facing the wall). The descent sucks. Stay in the gully a bit longer than you think you need to before heading back toward the wall, or you will end up on higher ledges near Orbit, etc.

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Recent Sendage:

  • 5.9
    2023-05-21
  • 5.9
    2018-10-03
  • 5.9
    2018-10-03
    Cold!! :) there was frost do it again in the warmth such a great climb! CHICKEN HEADS GALORE!
  • 5.9
    2016-09-04
    w/ Cat. First party on the route and the only party to not get rained on during the ascent/decent. Lead the whole climb in one block, started via the Remorse route for p1 and 2. P5 is likely one of my favorite cracks I've ever climbed!
  • 5.9
    2015-07-11
    amazing day. the final two pitches are the stars with the never ending hand crack, but the 5.9 pitch in the middle is amazing in its own way, too.