The Noose

44. The Noose ** 11c MIXED 16 p Established: Dean Flick and many friends. FFA: Dean Flick, Ruedi Beglinger. Important: There might be climbers lower on the route... do not drop rocks!!! Gear: Pro to 1½ inch, 16 quickdraws, several shoulder-size slings. Approach: From Canada West Campground. Start: At the upper end of the creek gully (bolts). Same start as for The Last Tango and Eternity. Route: Great route with hard and exposed climbing at the upper part. Pitch 14 makes you feel as you are way out there. Pitch 1 to 4: Follow the many bolts up easier terrain up to 5.7 to the lower edge of a large ledge. 35 to 60 meter pitches. Pitch 5: Climb onto the ledge and walk diagonally to the left across this large ledge to the base of a large slab. From this point climb diagonally up to the left, past a little roof to the belay at a sloping ledge, 50 meters. Pitch 6 to 9: Climb straight up over slabs and steep corners, up to 5.10a. 45 to 60 meter pitches. Pitch 10: Climb diagonally up to the right and follow the right side of a long right-facing corner, 5.8, to a sloping ledge above, belay 45 meters. Pitch 11: Traverse on easy terrain to the right into a left-facing corner system. Climb this corner system, 5.7, to sloping ledges above. Now scramble diagonally up to the right to the next belay, 45 meters. Pitch 12 to 16: Follow the many bolts to the top of the climb, amazing climbing with great exposure, 5.9 to 5.11c, up to 27 to 55 meter pitches. Descent: Walk down the trail back to the Canada West Gampground, 1 hour. From the top of the climb walk down the trail towards the rappel route of the Hanging Judge. Near the top of the Hanging Judge and Convicted you will find a large tree with two clothing hooks. From this tree walk an additional 30 meters downhill. There turn off to the left and follow the marked trail down to the power-line, 40 minutes. At the power-line walk for 150 meters along a small road towards east, then branch off to the right and follow a second small road to a larger gravel road. Now follow this larger gravel road to the Canada West Campground, 1 hour from the top of the Columbia Buttress.